Hello, I am new stovebolter as my wife just inherited her fathers 1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup a couple of months ago. Her father purchased it many years ago from the original owner who claimed he never drove it in the rain or winter (Minnesota truck). It has since been stored in a barn until her father sold the farm and he moved it to his new home/shop and started working on it. Got it running after installing a new gas tank, but it apparently smokes heavily - probably stuck rings from sitting.
I will be traveling from WI to MN to pick it up in a couple of months and bring it home.
The truck is supposedly original paint and no rust - before he passed, her father painted the wheels, bed stakes and beltline with a paint brush. The truck was built in Janesville in October of '46. The question I have is that if this is the original paint, why is the color of the firewall blue where the paint chipped away. Is it the primer - I did read on here that the factories often used paint they had laying around ... doesn't appear to be a shade of blue that was offered that year. Any thoughts?
That picture of the firewall looks to be the topcoat (probably original) peeling off and exposing a grey primer. The truck looks to be possibly brewster green to me, but the computer doesn't render colors very accurately.
I agree, that's a very cool truck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Hey Roadrunner, where in Wisconsin do you live? I am in the U.P. of Michigan. Don't know of to many bolters up this way. I am doing a 37 and mine is Brewster green and does have some blue showing under the green. I also think that this was a primer. Nice truck. Bill
Welcome to the Bolt! That is a gorgeous pickup! I grew up on a '46 1 ton pickup and have always had a soft spot for '46's. When you get it home pour a little ATF in each cylinder and let it sit for a few weeks. See if that helps loosen those rings up a bit.
Hello, I am new stovebolter as my wife just inherited her fathers 1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup a couple of months ago. Her father purchased it many years ago from the original owner who claimed he never drove it in the rain or winter (Minnesota truck). It has since been stored in a barn until her father sold the farm and he moved it to his new home/shop and started working on it. Got it running after installing a new gas tank, but it apparently smokes heavily - probably stuck rings from sitting.
I will be traveling from WI to MN to pick it up in a couple of months and bring it home.
The truck is supposedly original paint and no rust - before he passed, her father painted the wheels, bed stakes and beltline with a paint brush. The truck was built in Janesville in October of '46. The question I have is that if this is the original paint, why is the color of the firewall blue where the paint chipped away. Is it the primer - I did read on here that the factories often used paint they had laying around ... doesn't appear to be a shade of blue that was offered that year. Any thoughts?
Regardless of original or not. Don't mess with perfection!
When you get it home pour a little ATF in each cylinder and let it sit for a few weeks. See if that helps loosen those rings up a bit.
I had an engine that had sat for unknown years. It missed and had poor compression. But over the months as I drove it gradually began to smooth out until it ultimately ran the the proverbial Swiss watch.
You must post some more pictures of the interior, dash and underneath. Nice truck. I like the look of the original lacquer paint. Wish more spouses came with trucks like that....better than an engagement ring.
Beautiful truck for sure and I too have a soft spot for the art deco's! Possibly silly questions but if the truck were repainted, to paint the firewall, wouldn't the engine have to be pulled at the very least? I don't know why and again, very far from a professional opinion but seems unlikely to me. Looks like some odd color primer to me.
The other thing I noticed is the vin tag is missing. I suppose if it was re-painted it would have been removed for that? I hope you still have it!
Again, awesome truck. You will have a blast with it. Welcome to Stovebolt!
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
Thanks for the thoughts and ideas guys. From what I'm told, the Brewster green paint is original and never been touched. I do hope the Vin Tag is with it as I have not been there to look - I have been told that there is a stack of original documents...
Bill, I live in Manitowoc - not too far from you.
I've attached more photos of the truck. For years I've been telling my father-in-law to put a modern chassis under the truck and a V-8 engine, but now that it's mine I plan to clean it up, get it running well and drive it just as it is!!! Although I do like the look of the wide white walls on these trucks...
Very cool truck! My experience is GM used red oxide primer at the factory, not grey. As with anything there could be exceptions. The way to tell is to look at chips that go all the way to metal. You'll be able to see the layers of paint. If there's nothing between the grey (looks more like blue on my monitor) and the metal it's likely the base primer. If there's another color between it and the body, the truck has had a repaint. Either way you and your wife have a real treasure and a valuable piece of history. I'm an original kind of guy so my recommendation is to preserve it, not hot rod it. It's only original once.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Nice truck and if you ever wonder about it's value here is one we did 30 years ago from a rust free Texas truck that has been DRIVEN---note where the bed liner coating has been worn through on drivers running board. After owners health failed he listed it for 20k and sold it the first day.
Tiny, it appears upon closer look that blue-gray is the base layer above the metal so it must be the primer. As someone noted, it appears to be missing the cowl plate from the passenger side firewall - I don't even see holes for it...
Beautiful truck coilover - makes me feel good about the value. Because the family wanted to keep the truck in the family they sold it to me for a very good price, but I think it will be something that stays in our family for quite a while (I've got 4 boys).
I've spent alot of time researching topics on this site and I am amazed at all the knowledge here! Besides getting the engine running and putting a shine on the lacquer, is there something that can be done to preserve the frame and underside of the truck?
Roadrunner, with regards to the missing VIN Plate. I see the holes for it in your photo. It mounts on the passenger side just ahead of the door on the side of the cowl not on the flat in the engine compartment. Reproductions are available.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
My son has a 1946 2 ton that he uses for his business and it also has the original paint. Same green as yours. Your paint has the blue tint to it from the way that color oxidizes. My son's truck was garage kept its whole life just as yours.
Get some DuPont No. 7 White Polishing Compound. Do not use the red, do not use other brands because they do not work as well. Then with a buffing wheel, patience, a little white compound at a time and your truck will shine up just as nice as my son's 46.
If you want to see my son's truck here is the link.
Wow - what a great looking truck (made me kinda hungry looking at the photos though) - thanks for the advice on the paint polishing... I was looking online for some advice on polishing but its great getting it from someone who has done it with success.
Justhorsenround - now I see the holes - you're right, I was looking on the firewall. Hopefully the plate is include with the other parts and documents with the truck.
The answer may depend on how you want to preserve it and how close you want to stay to an unmolested truck if that’s what you intend. You can spray oil/wax mix on it to , pulling the frame, sandblasting the surface rust and using any number of rust preventative products on it to - powder coating. There are two stage and single stage enamel paints, to urethane products such as POR15 or Chassis Saver products. Lots of options. You can brush or spray these products but removing the surface rust is key for the product to adhere.
This is a very broad answer and searching this site and the internet will bring to light these options and help you decide how you want to proceed.
Warning - you may find that once you start you will want to fix this, do that, and next thing you know you are way into a bigger project than originally intended. It happens to most of us at one time or another. Recognizing project creep is the first step toward recovery. 😉
I think for now I would like to put something on it to preserve it while I work on the more needy parts of the truck - engine, interior, etc. I plan on getting the truck running, cleaned up (polish the lacquer) and driving it. I will look more into the oil/wax idea - assuming I would wire brush it also...
Yeah, seems right. Wire brushing is a good idea. I also use a braided wire wheel with an angle grinder on the larger more accessible sections. Power washing with an industrial cleaner will help remove most of the dirt - others will chime in with their preferred methods and products. Consider after the wash to spray with a zinc phosphate on the metal(Ospho or POR15’s Metal Prep). Final spraying with an oil and wax product is the least invasive method.
Grease and oils in and around the motor and transmission (on the frame) may be your best friend in preserving the originality of the truck. I wouldn’t be in a hurry to wash it off. As others have said- these trucks are unique - not on the high end of rarity - but, keep in sight that what distinguishes your truck is the great original condition it’s in. In the long run - this makes your truck desireable and appreciated by those in the business or hobby. Ultimately an original condition truck- in as straight a condition as yours - will become more rare and something to value.
Keep all of the original parts should you ever change these out.
Wow, awesome truck! My 47 is doing the same thing on the firewall. I just figured someone repainted it along the way at some point, which seems odd to paint the firewall of an old truck that's just a driver or work truck. Hmmm...
Beautiful truck Roadrunner. As far as getting under the rear half, if it were my truck, the decision to or not to would hinge on the condition of the deck boards. If they are rotted and you want to replace them, then the best method would be to unbolt the bed and remove as a unit, thus exposing the entire rear suspension, then follow Tom's advice. Steve
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Just Mark - by any chance was your '47 produced in Janesville, WI?
sstock - excellent point! I believe the boards are in rough shape and I will want to replace them - that would save me from trying to clean it all up while laying on my back under the truck. I do like Tom's advice as I want to keep this truck as original as I can, for as long as I can!
Very nice truck you have there, most (like my 46) were rode hard and put away wet. They are only original once so if that's what you want you have the perfect truck. Mine was a driver but was a mish mosh of bits and pieces from several other trucks and years, took me a few parts trucks and YEARS of work to get her done.
Original bedwood was southern yellow pine - painted with a heavy black product. That is if you want to keep it to what is close to the original look as possible. Changing some of the friction and wear parts won’t hurt the value - such as shackles and kingpins (if they even need replacing), motor rebuilding, repair of u joints, ball bearing replacement assemblies, etc.
We’ve gone from paint to vin to point of manufacture? Folks searching this thread topic in the future are going to be confused.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Actually just went back to the original question of the thread - Just Mark's '47 has the similar blue paint/primer on the firewall. Curious if it was manufactured in the same factory as mine that has blue on the firewall...
Change your post title to “original truck questions”. That may help keep this thread a little more general and less restrictive. May allow related questions to come into play.
