So, I've managed to get the wing vent assemblies back together, with one exception. I can't find the little rivets that hold the vertical strip in place. I'm talking about the part where the wing vent window closes against the vertical bar. Does anyone know where to get those? Or what size they are? Or some sort of substitute?
Tim
I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.
When restoring a truck, one needs to get familiar with vendors who specialize in the parts. Get good at searching those vendor sites. This took less than 12 parsecs to find. No problem, just FYI. You can thank your Lucky Stars I'm here. Whether you own a "Mercury Comet", a Chevy "Astro" or a Plymouth "Satellite", parts are in this Galaxy. (sorry, I read your profile)
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
This took less than 12 parsecs to find. No problem, just FYI. You can thank your Lucky Stars I'm here. Whether you own a "Mercury Comet", a Chevy "Astro" or a Plymouth "Satellite", parts are in this Galaxy. (sorry, I read your profile)
Lots of guys just glue those in place. I would recommend black urethane sealant, and use some clamps to hold the seal in place until the sealant cures.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I'll have to go with Carl on this one.....been running glued on pieces like you describe for years...no problems and the rivets can be a pain in the back side. I gave up on mine, the rivets were so hard you couldn't set them and the little tool I bought with them was useless/worthless. Your choice though.
I just used some small blind rivets. Stainless, so they wouldn't rust.
Blind rivets have a stick out. How does that work on a division bar where both sides need flush? Also aren't the rivet sizes predetermined by the hole and countersink sizes? I only know TF. Maybe AD is different, just curious.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Tim, I used the classic rivets and I found the installation to go fairly smoothly. Like Tim said aw well, i screwed up the first rivet (not in the frame though, it was on my vise) and then got the feel for the tool and it went easier after that. One good thing about the kit was that it came with a couple extra rivets and I suspect it was exactly for this reason!
Last edited by Fox; 03/07/20194:50 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Blind rivets have a stick out. How does that work on a division bar where both sides need flush? Also aren't the rivet sizes predetermined by the hole and countersink sizes? I only know TF. Maybe AD is different, just curious.
It's been a while, but there must be space on the backside. The channel felt sits where it is supposed to and I have no window bind. I must've checked fitment before I used them.
That would sure be a lot easier. I will check that method next time. Is that the head side? I was thinking of the upset end stick out. Must be clearance as you say.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
