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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 22 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 22 | I’m looking at buying a new gas pedal for my 49 Suburban as my original has no rubber left
There seems to be a wide range of prices for the repro pedals, does anyone know if they are all the same quality or are some to be avoided?
49 Suburban Project
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | The only thing I know is on my 49' is you have to get the one with a round hole on the back. I ordered a replacement pedal not knowing that I had to have one that was for a 49'. There's a difference in them. Hope this helps. The one that I have has a built up rubber on the back for rod that comes through the firewall and it has a press type fit to keep it in place. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | Mike, I purchased a repro pedal for my 1 ton AD (ball and socket type) and it didn’t fit worth blah. It was from LMC. I’ve found that on many reproduction parts it’s a crap shoot as to which parts are going to fit and which don’t. The pedal wouldn’t fit into the “push rod” when installed and when pivoted it would pop the ball out of the little socket on the back. I felt I didn’t want that happening when I was driving so I put it on my shelf and used the old one. My old one didn’t have rubber either but this is what I did. I got some nice heavy floor mat rubber, cut it to fit the pedal, predrilled some holes for (if I remember correctly) little 10-32 electrical bolts, and glued that sucker down with 3m spray adhesive. It looks good but isn’t original looking. If you can live without it perfectly original looking his may be an option. https://photos.app.goo.gl/VtQVwTpsXddADEfy9
Last edited by Fox; 02/17/2019 4:31 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Im sure you can use either type, ball-socket or cotter pin style just by using the push rod that matches. Have done that on one of my trucks. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | The issue with the ball and socket style pedals not staying put may not be due to the pedal itself. It may be due to a bent rod, or a non-stock position of the other end of the rod. Its all about geometry and motion. The section of the rod has a distinct curve to it so that it can pass through the hole in the toeboard freely. That curved section is not prone to bending, but the rest of it is, and sometimes they are bent to reach the non-stock connection at the carburetor or bellcrank.
(From Fox's description, he apparently got a hold of a bad new pedal.)
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | I believe it was a bunk pedal. I tried a couple of my other parts pedals on the truck and they all worked fine, but not the reproduction. So I figured I’d keep the original. | | |
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