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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | My nephew purchased a replacement 1963 230 c.i. motor. Removed the tranny to flywheel in order to mount it on engine stand. Now wants to perform compression check. Is that possible and if so how? Thanks.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy beltfed, Merry Christmas, if the stater mounts to the engine block you might be able to do a compression on the engine stand, BUT the stand must be a strong stable one. I would prefer you take the engine off the stand and block it on the floor and do the compression test there. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,851 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,851 | You will need to have a flywheel or a flex plate bolted onto the crankshaft, and the starter in place. I can't think of an effective way to spin the crank fast enough otherwise. How about doing a cylinder leakdown test instead, where air pressure is put into the cylinders? You'll need to figure out a way to lock the crankshaft for each compression stroke, maybe with a piece of steel bar bolted to the crank and locked against the engine stand. Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | I told him he “put the cart in front of the horse”, but he takes after his uncle (me). I’ll pass this info along. Thanks.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 | If the stand is a four wheel type, doing the compression test shouldn't to much trouble. Support the front of the engine with 2x4 cut to length, add a flywheel and starter, hook up a battery and temporary starter push button. Remove all spark plugs and have carburetor wide open ( no fuel hook-up ). Spin the engine for three to four compression stroke on each cylinder with gauge screwed in. Add motor oil to each cylinder, rotate it slowly by hand to spread the oil out, then do the compression test again on all cylinders same as before. The oil will "seal " the rings slightly especially if the engine has sat for awhile. The actual number isn't as important as the difference from one to the other.
There will be not torque on the test stand as the engine spins, and with a good battery and starter, the engine should spin quite fast. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 |
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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