The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 191 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,089
Posts1,056,141
Members48,436
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
I installed a dual-stage power brake unit when my original master cylinder failed on a hill. I bent new hardline to the front, bled the system, and tested. It worked perfectly, stopped the 3.5 ton panel on a dime. I drove the truck to my buddy's shop to replace the sheetmetal damaged in the brake failure, and we ended up doing a major resto. For the better part of a year, it sat in the yard while we worked on a cure for it's cancer.

Here's where it gets strange: When I put it back on the street, I noticed that the brake pedal would stay down when depressed with the brakes locked. I can pull the pedal up and the brakes release, but the only way to make the thing behave normally is to remove the vacuum hose and cap the booster.

So what makes my booster stick with full pressure? I need to get this sorted, as stopping without the booster is a total b1tch.


1955 First Series GMC 250 1-Ton Panel
In the Gallery
Mr. Hedgehog - Follow the build
If you can't laugh at yourself, I'll laugh at you.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 132
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 132
sounds like you need a return spring on the pedal.
had to do it on my COE as it did the same thing.
go get ya a universal clutch return spring from a parts store..


i miss obscene phone calls...
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
C
Member
Member
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
I would first try just replacing the Vac check valve going into the booster. If that doesn't cure it then you probably developed a tear in the booster seal and just need to replace the booster.


Joe
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
I replaced the return springs for both brake and clutch pedal, but that didn't change anything. I think I'll take it into the local brake shop and have the booster/check valve tested.

I really hate spending money I don't have, and I was hoping this would be something I could solve.


1955 First Series GMC 250 1-Ton Panel
In the Gallery
Mr. Hedgehog - Follow the build
If you can't laugh at yourself, I'll laugh at you.
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,441
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,441
did you put in a proportioning valve too?
Check that the rod isnt sticking.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!

Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0