The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Installing new headliner- what's the best insulation padding?

I just finished installing new windlass on the passenger door, and put in new windshields and rubber last winter. When I put in the new rubber, I pulled the old headliner front, which must have been the original, because it disintegrated upon removal. Got one of the hated and infamous replacements from CP, and now that I've got the windlass in, it's time to put the ceiling back up. What's everybody's opinion on what is the best "padding/insulation" between the headliner and cab roof? The old padding looks to be old wool jute similar to the floor padding, but I know there's better material for this in the modern age. The existing pad is falling apart when i touch it, and would probably fall on my head if it wasn't glued up there. About 1/3 has come down already. Thanks for any information on what you all deem best. Butch

I just finished sound insulating my 1950 3100 and used Noico (can get off Amazon). Don't know how well it works yet but is highly recommended.

You need to put the headliner in before you install the windlace to the cab. Dynamat or similar works well for the ceiling.

Thanks, Jhyp. Too late Carl. And it's not coming back out after THAT fiasco. The driver's side had been replaced before I got it. Now I know why he didn't want to do the second one. But thank you for the suggestion. I'll have to check both of these out. I'd have just left the old one up there if it hadn't crumbled on me.

I used the insulation from the local hardware store. It's the stuff that looks like 1/2" thick bubble wrap with foil on both sides. Bought a 6" x 20' roll. It worked out to be just enough to do the roof of the cab; got a couple of feet left over.

I did one 6" strip at a time. Cut to fit then spray with super 77 adhesive and stick it on. Repeat until roof is done.

I wish I had found this stuff BEFORE I did my headliner. I've used it in the doors and under the hood. Man what a difference it makes. I like it so much, I might even remove my Suburban headliner and install it!! OEM type of stuff. And a great price, too! 3M Sound Deadener

Sorry about that showme. I cringed after I typed. I did not want to be THAT guy (Mr. Know-it-all after its too late).
Let us know how the headliner install goes with the windlace in the way.
Carl

In my work, I used rolls and rolls of plastic bubble wrap insulation. I used it in my panel as well as 3 work vans over a 30 year period. I was always quite pleased with it.

Showme,

I know this is off the original question. Don't stress about installing the windlace first.Since I didn't know any better, I installed my windlace, prior to installing the dreaded headliner. Perhaps I used an unorthodox method. But, I just slid one end of the front head liner under the windlace. That held it in place at one end. Then pulled the other side down and put the other end of the headliner in it. Then installed the center bow and repeated with the back part of the headliner. With the exception of having to pull the front portion out once to trim the corners that slide into the front pillars. Then cut the holes out for the passenger side sun visor bracket. It really wasn't that bad a job. One of the local restoration body shops recommended this a product found on ebay. If you search for: Deimos_Deals Sound Deadener It is a fraction of the price of the name brand sound deadeners. I used it throughout my 53 3100. It worked very well. Good luck with your restoration project. Hope this helps.

Rugo

Thanks, Rugo, that helps. I think I'll try your pad, too. It's not realistic to think that anyone would consider taking out the windlass just to put in a new headliner, but to be honest, I had gotten on here (or somewhere) and thought someone had said to be sure to get the windlass in before putting in the headliner. Guess I got it confused or misread it. At any rate, that thing was a bear to get in (I actually cheated after getting the rear section in and spread the channel on the top and used 3m weatherstrip adhesive, then pushed the front section in with a screwdriver from on side, which was someone else's idea), But thanks everybody for helping out on this. I feel much better about the whole thing, now. And I'll be using your method now that I've read it.

Showme,

Hopefully the installation will go as smoothly as it did for me. I know that I have heard a number of guys that have really had to fight to get them installed. Here is a link from one of our fellow bolters, I used it as guide to install mine. I didn't use any kind of liquid to make mine more pliable though. But, there are some real good tips here. For instance, which direction the bow gets installed. I will warn you, the roller that is included in with the sound deadener, isn't the bet quality. Other than that, the sound deadener will work very well for you. Good luck with your install. Post a picture when you have completed it. Look forward to seeing it.

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/headliner_install_cardboard.html

Rugo

I used the bubble stuff on my roof and protecto wrap on the doors.....actually window tape. Can't find it by its name but something like this..... https://www.lowes.com/pd/TITE-SEAL-...Rubberized-Asphalt-Roll-Flashing/1007825

MNSmith, isn't this similar to what you referenced? The prortecto wrap I used sure cut down on the "ting" of things. and once stuck and rubbed good it sticks very well......all this just FYI

Yes. Similar. But I think it is a thinner material.