The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 air cleaner

I have the oil bath original air cleaner on my 235. Not real fond of having to use oil.....wondering if there is some type material I can use to replace the oil and still do the job. I don't drive in areas with much dust and never on a dirt road. Thanks

Could modify the thing and search Napa for a modern paper replacement but nothing wrong with oil bath. Just need a heavier grade like 50 wt and do not over fill. Best of luck

My air filter allowed me to easily remove the entire oil bath assembly and insert a Fram CA148. Others have had to cut up their filters to allow for a paper one but mine was done without any cutting. Search the forums for more info.

If not in dusty/dirty driving then you can use ATF. It is a lot easier to clean and does not affect engine if it gets sucks in.

Chuck,

What would be the advantage of thinner ATF compared to the recommended 50W oil?

The advantage would be easier cleaning of the filter housing and the copper mess material. I would not use the ATF if driving in a desert area or where there is a heavy dust/dirt in the air.
Chuck

Mine cleans up real easily after using the recommended 50W oil:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0674.html

- diesel fuel or kerosene to clean the mesh
- wipe clean the base, and then wipe with kerosene/diesel soaked rag (then wipe dry; and let air dry)

My guess is the same amount of work and solvent would be needed with ATF.

I'd have no problem using ATF, if that was readily/cheaply available. I'd wonder about "scrubbing" efficiency of the "bath".

There is a little bit of a side story that goes with changing the stock mesh to a paper filter. Those mesh filters, when clean, flow a pretty good amount of air. They flow more air then an equivalent size paper filter. So you may end up with a motor that is running worse on a paper filter then on the mesh filter vis a vis less air flowing through at any given time. So you might have to mess with filter area size, stacking tow up, or just using a physically larger air filter, to get one that is just right, not too free flowing but not too restrictive, or as in the three little bears, one that is just right, lol. Do not know if that would be the case with a high flow like K&N.

The other thing to consider, and only if you are using the canister/air chamber style air filter, is that the inside of the canister /air chamber was not painted or protected when it was manufactured so rust has developed over the years. Also, the mesh filters were not all that efficient so its not uncommon to have a lot of rust, dirt and other debris trapped inside the air chamber. Because the air chamber itself is not accessible unless you cut the air cleaner apart, you cant clean all that junk out. If you take the air filter and lower lid off, then shake the canister, you will hear if there is a lot of junk floating around. If there is, you might consider getting a replacement as you probably don't want the motor to inhale that junk.

How much 50wt oil is used in the stock air cleaner system?

The stock air cleaner depends on the make, year, and size truck.
Post that info and we can look up the answer in a Shop Manual and/or Owner/Driver Manual.

If it is an oil bath air cleaner (not stock on most small trucks), it should have a fill line marked on the inside bottom of the side wall.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0673.html

1947 1/2 ton with 1959 235 engine and stock oil bath air cleaner.

There is a nice thread about this you can see here https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1219757/1.html .
I added comments and photo links on page 3 about how I modified mine with part numbers.

Thanks!