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#126832 06/20/2007 4:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
Hello everyone -

I just wanted to post some pictures of my truck's rear frame after I sand blasted it, sanded/ground it and painted it with aerosol Zero Rust and Zero Rust Crystal coat.

If you want to see the results, click on the following link and view the Completed Rear Frame album.

http://community.webshots.com/user/rericson01

I like the way it turned out and the Zero Rust was great to work with.

Just wanted to share the results of Zero Rust product.

Ross

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 19
D
Apprentice
Apprentice
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 19
I like the way that looks. I wonder how it holds up. I seem to have a problem with por15 sticking to fresh metal. I do all there prep stuff and the stuff starts to peel off in sheets after a few months.

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
F
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 68
Ross,
looks great!
Did you use the prep step by zero rust
Or just the red oxide and black zero rust paint?
I am in the process of cleaning the frame on a 1959 pickup under the bed and have purchased the
prep step and areosol can paint from them.
How many cans of paint did it take?
Thanks for the photo link!
Barry

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
Hi Barry-

I did not use the prep step. I got everything down to bare metal(or as close as I could get), cleaned it really well and then painted. I always wondered about the prep step, but didn't go for it. I guess time will tell.

I painted everything red first then I hit it with black. I then used the Crystal coat to seal it. I ended up using 5 red, 7 black and 2 crystal. I am still going to hit it a few more times with the crystal.

I painted the brake drums with high temperature header paint.

This is my first time doing anything like this so I hope it turns out to last a long time. My long term goal is to make this into a driveable hot rod type truck. I can not afford to spend tons of cash all at once so I did not do an official frame off. I still intend to drive it as I am working on it so I am finishing the rear end first (rear frame, bed, bed walls, and fenders) then I will begin working on the front, then the middle. Might be kind of backwards, but makes sense in my amatuer mind.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

Ross

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 68
Ross,
Thanks for the reply guess I need to order some more paint I only got two of the red oxide and two of the black.
I,m doing the same thing for money shortage and still reeling from a divorce.
Also need to use the truck but sure am strugging with the idea of not going all the way to the frame.
Thanks for the information and will report on how the prep step works for me.
Barry

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
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Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
Fantastic job ! well done


1952 Chevy Shortbed

Photos in Photobucket

If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 629
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 629
i used zero rust as well. I actuall brushedon the first coat then sanded it down smooth. Then top coated it with a lot of cans of the black. i do not plan to use the crystal because I like the mat finish the black has. I am in the middle of a body off restoration and at leas at this point i would use it again. I had my frame stripped down to bare metal then painstakenly filled all of the pits that wer not filled by the initial brushed on coat of zero rust. I filled them with Evercoat's metal-to-metal. Overall the zero rust is very easy to work with!!! I have parts that I painted a couple years ago and they are holding up great with no signs of fading or wear.


Tim Sheridan
1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it.
In the Gallery
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26
4
New Guy
New Guy
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Where do you get Zero Rust products? Do any local auto supply stores have it?


1947 1st Series Chevy One Ton Panel

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 629
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 629
http://www.raybuck.com/

cheapest I could find


Tim Sheridan
1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it.
In the Gallery
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 289
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 289
Ross,

Did you sand blast the rear axle? I've heard you don't want to mix sand and gears.

Quote
Originally posted by 1stproject:

I still intend to drive it as I am working on it so I am finishing the rear end first (rear frame, bed, bed walls, and fenders) then I will begin working on the front, then the middle.
Ross [/QB]
I am doing the same as you on my truck. Your plan makes sense to me.

My pictures.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559470730wVijhI


Eric
http://s1199.photobucket.com/user/sparky234/library/My%2057%20Chevy%20Stepside?sort=3&page=1
'57 Chevy 3100 (Little Red)
'81 RD350 LC - Fun, Fun, Fun
'83 GS1100E - Pocket Rocket
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
Hi Eric -

Your truck is looking good!

No I did not sand blast the axles. I meant that I sand blasted the axle housing. I made sure that I had all access to the sensitive areas covered up when I was sand blasting. It is amazing how the sand gets everywhere!

Say...... can I ask you a couple questions? It looks like you set up a paint booth in your garage. Was that the case? If so, how did you rig the ventilation? What kind of primer where you using? Are planning ahead on what type of system to spray on? If so can you give me a hint? (I am pretty confused in this area) will you paint all of your truck in the same garage /facility?

Glad to hear someone else has the same plan of attack.

Ross

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
F
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
I used this company for my source on Zero Rust product.

https://www.shop.mfgsealants.com


Moderated by  klhansen 

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