The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Shaffer's1950, 1955 1 Series), 346 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,160
Posts1,057,054
Members48,463
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
Anybody have experience cleaning out a gas tank? Mine seems to have enough particulate matter that the fuel line gets clogged. We blow it out back from the fuel pump with compressed air, the truck runs for a while, then gets clogged again.

New tanks are expensive and take weeks to arrive.

I'm considering dropping the tank, and flushing it to remove the (presumed) rust.

Anybody do this previously, and any hints would be appreciated!

Thank you!!!


Lisa

1952 Chevy Carryall in completely original condition
Pulled out of a barn in Colorado high desert
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,991
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,991
This has been discussed before. A search of the forums should turn up a number of suggestions. A couple of them might involve putting some small stones, bolts & nuts, etc. in the tank and shaking or rotating it to loosen up the stuff inside. Some folks have used muriatic acid to wash out the tank, others have taken them to a radiator shop and had them cooked out.
There are also a hundred different opinions as to what kind of coating or liner to use, or whether to use one at all.
Those are just some of the methods that are out there. As this thread progresses I'm sure you'll hear them all, plus some I left out.
Good luck.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Like Rich says, good old common sense. Inspection with a sun mirror thru the sender hole to see how bad and then knock it all loose and try to get it to come out. Soap and water at first. Use all above from Rich or 1 foot long chain.........anything that will scrub and can be retrieved. Chances are there are baffles in there which makes it very hard to clean without chemicals. A Carryall gas tank is rare and worth saving. The max option is cut it open to clean and weld/braze shut. Without blowing up.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
DIY system:



Looks like a pain; I'd take it to a radiator shop.


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
The decision is yours......I took mine to a radiator shop and they wanted $80 to vat it overnight...and another $80 to put the stuff in for a lining. Its been 3 or 4 years ago and I didn't like the "end results". About that time JimCarter had the tank for my 52 panel re-popped and I invested a few more dollars and bought a new one. Be sure to get your 10% stovebolt discount.

.....now, on the other hand I had to refurbish my 37 pickup tank. I purchased the POR TANK kIT which was about $75 bucks back then which included everything but the muriactic acid which is fairly cheap at the local Lowes/Home Depot. It has been in my 37 for 19 years and just this year I noticed it may have a tiny pin hole in it somewhere...or the air vent is malfunctioning . I look in the tank and the liner looks in really great shape..........except for a tiny hole. It took me 2/3 of a Saturday, with the help of my nephew, to get it done.

...if you have the coins and its available without costing you both arms I'd bite the bullet and buy a new one. You'll be glad you did.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,305
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,305
If you buy a new tank, your worries are over. If you do anything else, your worries might not be over.
So you have to ask yourself a question. What is piece of mind worth to you?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
If you buy a 1954 panel body fuel tank, the "pickup" is on-top.
A filter-sock is used at the bottom of the "pickup" tube.
No sediment will get sucked into the line to you carburetor.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0