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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 33 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 33 | I got this post off the HAMB site where there was a link to a Mopar site. A fellow Canadian came up with this info and it created the longest post this Mopar site had ever had. I think there was around 40 some pages when it finally ended. Another Canadian edited it into this abbreviated form.
Post shortened by moderator. Please post links to long stuff like this but do not copy/paste. It really clogs up the forum.
Thanks. | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Chevy Nut, I think it need more trimming....quite a bit more. Stuart | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 48 | I've been following that thread on the mopar site for several months now. One of these days I'm gonna try it on my '67.
Joe -------------------------- '67 Chevy C20 fleetside, 250 inline, 3 on tree, heavy duty clutch and brakes, heater, steel bed floor ----------- "Tighten until the stud snaps, then back off half a turn."
| | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | I have been following that same thread for about a year now and decided to try it out...what the heck. My truck was a 20 footer...the old guy I bought it from painted over anything and there were runs, rust blisters, orange peel, dirt, so it was time. It is also a work truck, so I didn't want to freak when I scratched it hauling mulch or something.
The original thread was about Tremclad, the Canadian company owned by Rustoleum. It has since expanded to Rustoleum and a boat topside paint called Brightside..which is what I am using. By the way it is almost an exact match to my Windsor Blue.
I have done the front fenders with four coats...I am really happy with the way they came out. The cab and hood are in their primer now and they will be next. I will post some pictures a little later today.
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | Hotrod magazine used that thread as the basis for an article in this month's issue (July 2007). They repainted 1962 Falcon using this method for a total of $98 all supplies included. Pretty unbiased article too giving the pros and cons. Just be prepared for lots of buffing. | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | new photos added on link below. make sure and look under "all my photos" section...can't get them over to the truck album.
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | Blue50 was there a reason you primered everything? The article in Hotrod gave as one of the advantages the fact that Rustoleum can be used over either a scuffed surface, filler or bare metal and thus eliminates the need for a primer. | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | robin58, I didn't use the Rustoleum...I used a boat topside polyurethane called Brightside that is meant to be brushed or rolled on. I did some bodywork and didn't want to worry about coverage.
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Blue 50. your truck looks great! so was it brush, roller, spray, and a lotttttttttt of buffing or what? | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | Bowties. Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the way it is turning out. It's hard to tell from the pictures but it really lays down nice and self levels.
I'm using 4" white foam rollers from Menards. No buffing yet as I still have to do final wet sand with 1500 grit.
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Is it me? I don't see a link to the HAMB thread.
Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | OK Blue 50 do you have to "cut" out around things that your roller cannot get to ie: inside round fenders near the bedside and running bds, and if so do you trim with an expensive brush or a foam brush. This is hard to believe that this is Rustoleum, The Mopar forum said that the paint was like Rustoleum,but just another name but I'm cornfused :^) Thanx | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | TxLaTx, Im with you but thanx to toomany2count, he is johnny on the spot! Thanx guys -bowtie | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | Bowties, First off..the original post on Mopar was from a Canadian guy that used Tremclad, which is owned my Rustoleum but is a Canadian company. It is similar to Rustoleum but apparantly there are some subtle differences.
As that thread progressed...someone decided to try a topside paint made for boats called Brightside...that is what I am using. It is meant to be brushed or rolled on but also be sprayed.
As to getting to those hard to reach places, the guys that use Tremclad/Rustoleum use a foam brush OR they are using a spay can of the matching color ( like door jambs, trunks etc,,)
I have my fenders, grill and bed off the truck so there are not that many places the 4" roller can't reach. I will be using a small foam brush for areas like the rain/drip rails on top of the cab and around wipers.
Did that answer your questions?
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Hey Blue 50 check your pm, and yes that did answer my questions. Thanx--Mike | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | Chuck. Nice truck.
I pulled up the site on Interlux Brightside and read about the paint and roller painting. That is interesting. The paint also has UV protection.
Are you doing the 4 coats and mixing coats as recommended?
Thanks
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | Dennis, Thanks. I am doing 4 coats but with a little different formula. I am thinning 10% or so with Penetrol and a splash of mineral spirits. So far it is laying down like glass. I am very happy with the way it is turning out. This morning I painted the hood with one coat and will paint cowl, most of the cab and one door tomorrow. I have found that it is best to mix in small batches and take a section at a time, especially when the humidity is high.
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 | Man you guys have sold me, thats the way I am going from now on. I have been spaying in my driveway - always alittle worried about getting turned in and possibly poisioning myself. Sounds like thats the paint for me. Thanks much for that info, Tom. | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 7 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 7 | This is very interesting reading. I'm here because I walked into a restorer's shop in Los Angeles on Friday to get some pricing on paint work. He showed me a device that will rotate the vehicle in a somewhat rotiserie style. There would be no need for the removal of fenders etc. with the use of this lift. The cost.....$20K. A frame off job would triple the price. I checked out the Mopar link and was amazed at the quality he was able to get from a roller and sanding. Also Blue's results are giving be some pause. He has'nt sanded yet either. Although I must say Blue looked pretty good in the original red finish too. | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | stratkat64, just for the record...I have sanded after coat two and three but have not done the final wetsand before buffing. The original red finish was on a different truck...a 53 3600 that I owned before Blue...I loved that patina too!!
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | When this thread first started here on Stovebolt, I had already turned an old Barden bumper over to a local body shop, to be straightened and painted. After a month of waiting, the shop owner called me to come by and "let's talk about what's next." (Never good news.) He said he was unable to cross reference the Dupont paint code for Bombay Ivory, and wanted to know what I wanted him to do next, as in "paint some other color." While there, he showed me the bumper and wings. He had only straightened the bumper and filled a couple holes. The priming was mediocre at best. I told him I wanted to stop work and pay him for work done to date. No reason to prolong the misery.
If there was ever an application to try this roll-on painting technique, I'd think it would be on a farm bumper. At the very worst, it will look like what this guy was going to deliver to me.
I'll take some pictures to show before/after conditions and post them if anyone has an interest in seeing the results of my efforts. I plan to use plain ol' white Rustoleum, and the thinning/rolling process discussed on the MoPar boards.
Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 55 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 55 | Where can one purchase this TREMCLAD or BRIGHTSIDE paint? Thanks
Greater love have no man than this, That he let his wife drive his truck to the grocery store. ........
| | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | called Rustoleum in the USA, 8th
TxLaTx - if you can find the "Recreational White" it's close to Bombay Ivory
Bill | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | Yo Joe... I just saw ya over on the Mopar site....and yea I need to come back home to see my Dad for Father's Day....but you know how it is...the "old days" may catch up with me and anyway I don't think I am allowed back in St.Clair county until 2020!!!
Seriously....when Blue gets back together, I would luv to do a short road trip back home...I'll let ya know.
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Bill- Thanks for the tip to "Recreational White." (I assume that is the Rustoleum/Tremclad name.) Sounds like you've at least set foot on this road before. Did you have acceptable results?
I'm not expecting ultra-high gloss, but a 15 foot paint job would be nice...especially on a bumper! At this point, I could spend up to $175 on materials and still be ahead of the game. I'm going to save receipts and see how much I end up spending on a $50 paint job.
Bill | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | Bill, I came up with Chrysler 'pearl white' [Centari #B8173A1] for the Bombay Ivory on the 58, but use a lot of Tremclad around the place, and found that the Recreational White is real close to that ... yes, their name, and I think meant to match outdoor furniture and RV clading
I do like Tremclad, goes on good, holds up well, easy to touch up
Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 55 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 55 | Will the Rustoleum in the can from Lowes or Home Depot do? Having trouble finding the brand Tremclad.
Greater love have no man than this, That he let his wife drive his truck to the grocery store. ........
| | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | Tremclad is only available in Canada.
Yes the rustoleum is the big box sold variety.
I'd really suggest reading the entire thread at moparts which is divided into multiple parts. You'll get a good insight into the pros and cons of rustoleum and why the current trend is to use Brightside which has UV protection. It's more expensive but being it is designed for marine use is probably a far better paint with better durability than rustoleum. | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | US Tremclad/Rustoleum dealers - same product the problem I'd have with Brightside is Interlux paints are designed and intended for use on wood/fiberglas, tho' maybe it doesn't make any difference Bill | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | Yup you're right Joe, makes it easier though if you'd been following the thread for a couple of years. Originally posted by red58: US Tremclad/Rustoleum dealers - same product
the problem I'd have with Brightside is Interlux paints are designed and intended for use on wood/fiberglas, tho' maybe it doesn't make any difference
Bill I think it is OK for all surfaces judging by the Product Data Sheet: Preparation
BARE FIBERGLASS: In Good Condition Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. In Poor Condition Clean as above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Apply Brightside Primer. BARE WOOD: Sand surface, wipe clean. Apply Brightside Primer. Sand surface, wipe clean. BARE METAL: Sandblast or grind, remove sanding residue. Immediately apply Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355. Allow to dry for 1-24 hours. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414. CLEAR EPOXY: Clean as for Bare Fiberglass above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414. PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES: The surface must be clean and dry. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Here is a really cool boil-up of the 40+ page thread. One of the guys participating summarized it and made it its own website. (Don't forget to check his links for more info.) Bill | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | July 2007 issue of Hot Rod has an 8 page feature called "The $98 Paint Job", where they roller-paint a Falcon.
Bill | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | I think I said that about 32 posts ago in this thread  | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Heck that was so long ago I thought it was another issue! Hard to remember stuff on a long thread, and harder yet to have the discipline to go back and read all the posts. Sorry for the repeat. | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Finished my bumper project. It looks pretty good, especially considering that I have ~$15 invested in the paint! I doubt I'd paint a car with the method based on my limited skills, but for a bumper, it saved me $175 that the body shop wanted. They weren't even going to fill the pits, and planned to paint it some other white besides Bombay Ivory.
Bill | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 | i thought thats how they painted all MOPARS? seems like a reasonable way to paint your rig. i'm just going to enlist the local 2nd grade class and out fit them with 4" rollers and turn them loose. wish i had a old truck to paint when i was in art class  | | |
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