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#126304 05/17/2007 5:07 AM
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When cutting out rusted panels and cutting good donor pieces of metal, what's the opinion on whats best to use, a sawzall with a metal blade or an angle grinder with cut off wheels? Also, whats, most economical? I've never used a sawzall, only cut off wheels but the wheels seem to wear quickly and aren't really cheap. Any ideas? Thanks for the input in advance!!

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Chevy Nut,

I have used both methods and prefer the cutoff wheel. Sometimes the sawzall gets the whole friggin riggin leaping around and it's a real drag. I guess if you were going to hack at a panel that was real accessibile then the sawzall would be fine, but I still prefer the wheel.

Stuart

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I've never been able to follow a good line with a sawzall. I use an air cutoff grinder (smaller diameter and cheap disks) for stuff I care about and an air chisel for stuff I don't. I have one of those little air powered hacksaws but don't use it much because its pretty noisy.


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Good quality cutoff wheels might seem higher in price but you use less of them.
3M and Norton make the best ones. IMO anything else is wasted money...Eric


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I like both, but much prefer a sawzall if space allows. The sawzall makes less of a mess and sparks. And it won't leave a burr like an abrasive cutoff wheel.
It's a lot easier to follow a line if you use a 6" blade and angle the saw down close to the metal to increase the tooth contact.
They both have their places...I even like to use a jigsaw with a metal blade sometimes. However, everybody has their personal preferences...those are just mine.


Steve

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Thanks for the input, I guess I'll continue with the cutoff wheels and maybe borrow a sawzall from someone to see what a difference it makes.

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sawzall can really grab the metal and pull it around, i ended up with some unwanted "oil can" type creases as the whole panel flexed. I use one of those little air power hacksaws, they have a shorter stroke, and won't flex the metal like the sawzall. also gives good control, a bit faster than cut off wheel. but you will definitely need hearing protection, and neighbors won't care for it too much late at night.


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Those little Harbor Freight Air Body Saws are a little more forgiving than a sawzall.

HF Saw

And at $19.99 a bargain too.

I tend to use it in conjunction with cut-off wheels and find it easier to use in tighter corners.

And ditto on the use good quality discs. I made the mistake a few weeks back of buying some no-name brand cheepo cut-off wheels. I'll have the scar across the fingers of my lefthand for a long time to remind me that they shatter occasionally. You'd have thought I would have learned my lesson after the first 2 crumbled. The 3rd one did the damage and sliced right through my gloves on its journey through the air.

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Check your wheel rpm rating. Make sure it matches the tool you are using.

No one uses a nibbler?? Fast and no distortion!

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Actually I do that occasionally too after I busted up my shears. This little drill powered nibbler has proven pretty good:

ebay link

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A plasma cutter is the fastest method, however not many of us have one. I prefer using a cut-off wheel (12,000 rpm rating) in my air grinder or an 18v DeWALT angle grinder. If I am rough cutting, I will use a reciprocating saw with a good quality metal blade. I have also used shears and nibblers. Each of these tools have their place and are effective, however it is a matter of preference.

Tony

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Norton zip wheels get my vote. Great for cutting up Chevettes.

#126316 05/21/2007 10:38 PM
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It can really be hard to hold the piece still with a sawsall, and wheels are really expensive. So here is another way to cut out those bad areas.

Use a Sabre Saw. Like the one here. Just put in a fine tooth blade and it will cut steel like butter and you will have better control than cut off wheels or a sawsall.

Frank


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#126317 05/21/2007 10:49 PM
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For those who don't know what I'm talking about here is a pic of one.

[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j29/countilaw/33710.gif[/img]


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



#126318 05/21/2007 11:01 PM
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Geeze Don't do that,

#126319 05/21/2007 11:05 PM
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And why not? It's easy to say, Don't do that, but what do you have to back it up?

I've done this many of times and it works.

gazim, I didn't see you offering any solutions in the above post. So unless you can offer better ideas, DON'T!!!

Just don't come in here and say, "Geeze Don't do that,"


Frank


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



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Lighten up Francis. grin

As I mentioned previously in this thread, I do use a jig (sabre) saw with metal blades as well.
I used one to cut these frame horns in some 1/8" wall tubing. The result is a precision cut that requires little prep for welding. The jigsaw is great for body panels also.
I have a plasma cutter as well, but more often find myself using some sort of reciprocating variable speed saw...at least on leisure projects.

Steve


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You're right Steve, I just get irritated with people that say Geeze don't do that, and then don't contribute or back up what they are saying.

I wish I had a plasma cutter, they are really nice to have around the shop. Someday I will have one!!!


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



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The comment "geeze Don't do that" is because you posted a picture, instead of a link. You may or may not know, this is against the posting guidelines of the stovebolt.

A quality sabre saw or jigsaw with a good metal blade, is a good cutting option for light gauge sheet metal.

Tony

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countilaw:

I believe this is what gazim is referencing:

Posting pictures on stovebolt.com

I hope this helps you when posting pictures in the future.

Tony

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Oh man, I'm sorry guys, especially you, Gazim, I total misunderstood your post and I apologize.

I was unaware about posting the links instead of posting the pictures. I just used the Instant UBB code, "image".

I hope you guys understand and accept my apology, I total took the post wrong. I guess I'm just used to some of the jerks on another forum I visit.

Sincerely,
Frank


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



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I think Gaz is blushing

#126326 05/22/2007 10:12 PM
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Frank:

In any event, welcome aboard!

Tony

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you can get 10 4 1/2 wheels at harbor freight for 6.99 cheaper than anywhere and just as good.

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Beware of the wheels from Harbor Freight. They tend to jump and come apart more often than the Norton and the likes. I have tried them all and for the extra money, I feel it is worth the piece of mind and longevity, to go with the better quality, although more expensive, name brands, like Norton. Spinning at such high rpm's, I want the wheel to stay together. I hope this helps.

Tony

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I used a circular saw with a metal cutting blade to cut off the areas of my front fenders where the new patch panels will be used.It made a straight cut with no buckeling or ripping of the sheetmetal.And I cut both fenders in about 2 minutes.

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I just bought one of those cheapy "air nibblers"...
$39.95
The verdict is that it makes a really clean cut. These would be
good for those who are making their own patches from sheet stock
and have drawn out a pattern to follow. Keep it oiled well.
They cut fast, and just a little time to get used to.

Regards
Squire


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