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| | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 77 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 77 | Hello all,
Installing a new fuel tank (Brothers Truck #ATK6062 Top Fill) in my '61 Apache 10. Placing it in the back between the frame rails, directly ahead of the rear bed crossmember. I had to make two plates to properly span the distance across. I thought it would be a good idea to add a rubber strip between the plate and the tank mounting tab on each side. A friend of mine thinks this is a mistake and should just bolt it up metal to metal. I figure engines are isolated from the frame by rubber mounts, cabs are isolated from the frame by rubber mounts, why not do this for the tank as well? I'd appreciate any insights you all have.
Thanks,
GW
"The duty of a patriot is to protect his country from its government." - Thomas Paine
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Use rubber/fiber to keep straps/plates from rubbing a hole and anti rattle/squeak. How-to
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,777 | If you can acquire some canvas type fire hose it makes excellent tank support strap padding- - - -lasts forever!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Most of the older cars with tanks with straps used a soft strip between the straps and tank and Ford used bolts with short stiff springs. Both approaches allow the frame some movement before transferring the twist or shift to the tank. Certainly won't hurt to add cushions but I would use a keyed or self locking nut in case pad compresses or disintegrates.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Greenman Wood, if your tank is going to contain a fuel gauge sending unit and you are going to isolate the tank from the frame with some kind of non-conductive material, then you must add a ground wire from one of the sending unit mounting screws to the vehicle chassis so that there is a circuit connection to the fuel tank, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 77 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 77 | Thanks to all.
3B - the bolts that hold the tank touch the tank mounting tabs on one side, pass through the rubber strips and then attach to the frame on the other side. That should give the ground I need, but you can never have too many grounds! I'll run one as you suggest.
GW
"The duty of a patriot is to protect his country from its government." - Thomas Paine
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I second Jerry's idea about some old fire hose pieces. I used them on the bottom of my wooden support blocks on my panel and they work really well. They have layers of rubber and a polyester that will never rot. Go by an firehouse as they usually have some old discarded hose laying around.....mostly the out lying volunteer ones are the best. I've kept a good size length laying around for years. (sorry used the last on the panel) | | |
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