The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk High idle cable not staying pulled out? '50 3100

I've been trying to get the high idle cable working on my '50 3100 with a 235. I got a repro cable and think it's installed correctly, but it won't stay out when I pull it. The force of the throttle return spring just pulls it back into the dash. Any ideas? I figure I either need a weaker return spring (it seems pretty factory) or maybe the rigid end that goes through the dash can be crimped a little tighter to put more friction on the shaft that the knob attaches to? (Before anyone asks, here's a picture of the carb connection)

Even though a good idea I don't think I'd go crimping on it.....I vote for a little weaker spring from Ace Hardware.

.....most folks complain about not getting it to even work smoothly!

I found slight kinks in some of my cables, not in the sheath/ends, in the cable/wire (4-5 inches into the cable/wire) that caused enough friction to hold the cable in-position.

My aftermarket hand throttle doesn't stay or lock either. I've read where some folks have crimped the sheath tighter but I decided against that route and just made up a lock that will hold the throttle out at the desired fast idle I need. I suspend it down from the choke via a little chain. It's very handy for warming up the 216 when it's cold.

I think I might try putting a couple slight bends in the inner cable. Lord knows I've run into that sort of thing when I didn't want added resistance!

If it was mine I'd fabricate a sleeve with a setscrew in it, sort of like a tiny shaft collar, to tighten over the end of the cable sheath after letting it extend 1/2" or so past the bracket at the carburetor. You can fine-adjust the tension of the sheath against the cable that way.
Jerry

I'm with Alvin on this. You say the spring pulls it back in, not much to lose if you try a weaker spring.

remind me, why do we need a high idle cable?

I used/use it when stopped on a hill, and then starting up the hill.

Left foot on clutch pedal; right foot on brake pedal, hand-action with the throttle.

I never use/used it much for "cruise control" on a flat surface.

It comes in handy when the ethanol in the gas destroys the diaphragm of the accelerator pump in a Carter 2100YF (every 2 years on average), causing an extreme rich condition which causes a stall at idle speed. Pulling out the throttle cable opens up the throttle plate far enough to allow the extra raw fuel to be vaporized and makes it possible to drive the truck home for repairs.
Another use is when taking off uphill next to a hotrod with mufflers louder than straight pipes which makes it impossible to hear my engine. If I should stall trying to go up the hill, now I need feet to operate the clutch, the brake and the stomp starter. I only came with 2 feet, so pulling the throttle cable out frees up one of them to git-r-done.
It is also good for bumping up the idle for warming the engine up. A cold 216 engine does not move much oil to camshaft/lifters or the cylinders/rings at idle.

You can carefully work on the cable sheath with linesman pliers to spread the coils apart, giving you a moderate amount of friction. Employ a moderate amount of mash with the pliers. If you need more friction, move the the next coil and give it another mash.
Putting a slight kink it the cable wire will also work fine on a throttle cable without worry.
I would not do that on a loose choke cable since it may fail when you push it back in.
Carl

Very useful if you use the truck on the farm. Also for when using the PTO, if so equipped.

Out in the field while alone, I set the idle higher than usual so that the truck can drive forward alone, while I'm running along throwing bales of hay into the back. LOL!!

I don't remember the exact wording, but the Owner's Manual indicates that the choke should only be used to initially start the engine. After the engine is started, the throttle is used to supply fast idle to warm the engine as well as even out the idle.

As what 52Carl said, to put a small kink in the wire which will rub against the inner wall of the cable housing. Make sure the cable house is very clean and dry inside. Oils can seep inside, lubricating the wire without us knowing it.

Wish I could join in on this. I've got a new cable but don't have everything to hook it up with. Choke works fine. I'll get the throttle one day.