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#1253405 02/01/2018 12:58 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
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'Bolter
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Bought new WW for my ‘47 3100..AD. When I went to pick up the truck after the install, the mechanic broke a stud on the rear axel ....too much torque on the pneumatic wrench. Grrrrrr. Silent bad words to myself.
Got a replacement stud and was going to take the vehicle back to them as they did offer to install the stud for free. That was fair. I did take the hub off planning
G to bring the drum to them, install the stud, bring the drm Home, readjust the brakes and go happily on. WRONG.....didn’t realize/know the stud was on the axel, not the hub.
Research here found others have had similar experiences. What I’m not looking forward to is pulling the axel to replace the stud or using the puller suggested to press out/install the new on. I’ll have to buy the tool. Short term I may drive with one less stud, but there’s a reason they originally had 6.
Another day in the life of an old truck.
Learned a lesson though.......NO pneumatic tools will ever tighten my lugs EVER!

47PUJim #1253406 02/01/2018 1:11 PM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 326
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'Bolter
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Posts: 326
Jim;

It's a simple DIY job. All you need is a heavy hammer and maybe a drift punch if the stud is broken off flush/short. Check it out Tech Tip - Stud Replacement

SimS

47PUJim #1253409 02/01/2018 1:40 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,587
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Good link and tech tip Sim.
Replacing wheel studs is no big deal.
The shop that broke the stud should know better and replaced it right then.
I'd be looking for a new shop.

Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1946 2-Ton grain truck
1946 3/4-ton pickup,
1953 1-ton pickup
1957 1-ton flatbed dually,
1954 Pontiac Straight Eight
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
47PUJim #1253420 02/01/2018 3:24 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Interesting Tech Tip - Question I have is this , so you do not take a chance damaging the wheel bearings / races by using a 5 Lb hammer to drive the studs out ?


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
47PUJim #1253421 02/01/2018 3:35 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Replace EVERY stud that got abused by the air wrench. Where are you going to be (and traveling at what speed?) when the rest of them decide to shear off? DO NOT try to use the lug nut to pull the new studs into place- - - -a ball joint press or a big C-clamp over a deep socket is the right way to install them. The really right way is to remove the axles and hubs and do it in a hydraulic press. You're betting your life on those studs every time you drive, plus you're putting the rest of us who share the road at risk when (not if) a wheel decides to run off.
Jerry




"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
47PUJim #1253432 02/01/2018 4:59 PM
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Good points Jerry.
Once a bolt is over torqued/stretched, it's shear factor is lowered and weakened.

Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1946 2-Ton grain truck
1946 3/4-ton pickup,
1953 1-ton pickup
1957 1-ton flatbed dually,
1954 Pontiac Straight Eight
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
47PUJim #1253439 02/01/2018 6:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
I broke a bolt in my head. I hired a welder to put a nut on the stud. While it was still warm, we unscrewed the stud. Just a thought. Saved me a ton of time and money!

Chris

47PUJim #1253500 02/02/2018 5:02 AM
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M
'Bolter
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Posts: 6,212
Chris,

Wheel studs are pressed into the axle, not screwed...your trick is a good one, but it won't work here.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
47PUJim #1253508 02/02/2018 11:15 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
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K
'Bolter
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I got lucky .My rim was worn and when towing my truck when I purchased my truck the wheel came off.It happened on a corner by a tire shop and a fort ignition in Carmen Manitoba. The studs came out without having to take the axle out and the new ones were pressed in by using the lug nuts and a few washers.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY
47PUJim #1253526 02/02/2018 2:33 PM
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Posts: 224
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'Bolter
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Posts: 224
Many comments on this problem.....all excellent points.
Gee all of these comments have me seriously thinking about safety. Hot rod Lincoln and 2-Tons comments are especially eye opening. When I think of all lugnuts being pneumatically torqued, I wonder about the stress on the remaining studs. Change all studs is a serious option.
What mess this could be ugh. God Bless the ole manual lug wrench!!!! 😐

47PUJim #1253531 02/02/2018 3:14 PM
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Most of these old stovebolts have 7/16-20 lug studs, not 1/2-20 lugs like more modern vehicles. The proper torque for a 7/16" stud is around 70-75 ft-lbs., not 100 or so for a 1/2" srud. An air wrench can exceed 70 pounds with one good rattle, and the stud is sitting there at or near its breaking point while you merrily ride along, unaware of the danger. Another thing- - - - -if 5 or 6 lugs are not torqued equally, the tightest one holds almost all the clamping force until it stretches or breaks- - - -then the next-tightest one takes over, etc. The remedy is to use a torque wrench to be sure all the studs are tightened equally. Try this- - - - -get 5 people to hold up a 400-lb. weight for a while. The 5 foot 3 guy won't be holding as much weight as the 6 foot 4 one, right? When the tall guy gets tired and lets go, the next-tallest one gets most of the load. The same idea applies to lug nuts!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
47PUJim #1253532 02/02/2018 3:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,518
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'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
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Posts: 1,518
Good post Jerry, plus I like your analogy. The only time I use my impact is to take off the lug nuts.
Your right, most people vastly over tighten the fastener. 70 ft/lbs (7/16") is not a lot and it doesn't need to be any tighter. For some reason when it comes to lug nuts people think the tighter the better.

Last edited by sstock; 02/02/2018 3:47 PM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration

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