The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop cheap paint job advice

I have been reading these posts about spraying or brushing on tractor paint and I am sold. I don't want to spend thousands to have it professionally done when I can get it good looking myself. I already sent my rusted out cab to be fixed and that will cost a fortune ($1500). I don't want to pay body shops anymore. All tractor paints are basically acrylic enamel right? I ordered a dark green acrylic enamel, two gallons worth, and I want to either brush or spray this on. I have access to the ag mechanics shop at my school and I can use the spray gun equipment. I am going to brush on black paint on the frame myself and probably brush on the inner fenders and other black parts. Also, is there a spray can epoxy primer or some other kind of good primer that I don't have to get all the equipment out for? Something I can just spray on that will be durable and work underneath the acrylic enamel? I am not looking for the perfect paint job...all I want is something that will be cheap and fairly easy to do and will last 5-10 years before looking bad again. The main question I am asking is if there is an epoxy primer or some other sort of good primer that comes in spray cans, will seal out moisture, and will be compatible with the acrylic enamel I am getting.

I have been reading some more and...what about using a good high density 4" foam roller? Would my type of paint level out and still look good? How much would I need to thin it out either way?

Use a spray gun on the outside.A brush is ok for frame etc. I'm shure some of the other guys can help with what primer to use with enamel.

You get what you pay for. In the end,it'll cost you more to take off the "cheapo" and do it right than it'll cost you to do it right the first time.
5 years down the road youll be saying,,,"darn, why didnt i do it right the first time"?
Ive been there!!!
Marty

JS,
I've used tractor paint on quite a few vehicles and trailers and am completely satisfied with the results. Preparation is the key. Remove all rust preferably by cutting out and replacing. I used a product called "Right Stuff" for areas I wasn't able to access. For spraying the frame buy a cheap gun from Harbor Freight and spray. I've picked them up as cheap as 10 bucks. Will cost you that much with spray bombs. Have fun,listen to all the guru's and make your own choice. Pics below.

Dan
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2750634870071274430qzyNpf

As was said before is correct, Preparation, Preparation, and mainly Preparation. Tractor paint is just plain ole Oil Base Enamel, just like the paint on Grandpa,s Model A or his John Deere. Good durable paint job that will if applied right last for several years. First thing is the primer, I use the tractor primer, Why you ask, well it has rust inhibitors in it and is a sealer of type, apply 3 coats and let it dry for a few days and wet sand with 400 until baby butt smooth. That step is the key to a good paint job,surface prep, Now that the surface is ready, sanded, masked off, wiped down with prep solv, the paint is ready to be put on. Most equiptment paint requires thinning with either Napha or Mineral Spirits about 20%,spray the first coat where it just covers the cab with color, not to heavy it will run/sag, not good, wait at least 30-45 mins for the second coat and it can be a little heavier and completely cover the cab with color, this is a fine line between a good color coat and to much paint causing runs, the 3rd coat can be a lot thinner, maybe as much as 50% and wait at least 1 hr before appling, turn the pressure up about 10 more pounds on the gun, this coat will let everything kinda blend together and settle in real smooth, just don't get carried away this is kinda thin and will run quick, when this coat is done unhook the gun and get out of the booth and stay out for several hours. Enamel paint dries slow and going in and out of the booth stirs up dust and it settles on the paint. Another hint is to use hardener (Catalist) in the paint about 1 pint to a gallon and dont mix the whole gallon up at one time and don;t put the mixed paint back in the unmixed paint, it will set up in the can. Doing this kind of work requires patients, skill, and passion, if you don't want to take the time to do it right and show off your talent and pride go down to the local car lot and buy you something to drive and be like everybody else, or build your ride and drive it with PRIDE.

Would that tractor primer work with acrylic enamel? and is there another name for it? or is it just tractor primer at the local farm supply store?

I think I will experiment on scrap metal with the rustoleum or tremclad roller method described on the link above. It seems like what I am looking for. I've got the time to do it if it will only be $50 or $100 in costs

that's a good read joe, thanks for the link.
tom

Wow...interesting.
Rustoleum huh? Neat colors available too...hmmm

You spent $1500.00 on the body, don't waste all that money by a cheap paint job. Wait until you can afford to do it right. Just my nickels worth...

My only advice to you is as someone like me that hasn't got a lot of experience at painting is use test panels. This will teach you how your paint thinned 20%, then 50%, etc. sprays and not sag. If you've got the truck primered and sanded then torch the color coat you may screw up all your good work. That would be a bummer.

my 49 3600 is painted international harvester white. it is not bad, i have around 250.00 in sealer paint hardener mineral spirt. it looks good and is very durable, my 3600 is a daily driver and work truck for the most part, but after you wash is it cleans up real nice and its easy to take care of, and if you get little scratches they aren't as noticable and they don't look as bad as a nice clear coat- unless some kid at your high school keys it down through the primer/sealer- i was not happy that day the paint was 2 months old about a 18 inch mark on the front right fender never found out who did it

.....you'll be sorry.............

Clean out the garage really good, buy a house fan, a cheap harbor frieght gun, wet the floor with water and spray.

broom $8
Fan $20
paint gun $40
bugs, runs, orange peel, fish eyes, overspray on new car, choking lung problem...priceless

I agree with builder. I have tried every spray can and roller on the marked on various equipment and there is no way that you can paint a truck with the thickness of paint without getting runs and other problems with anything but a sprayer. A cheap gun at Harbor Freight is 20 bucks, then you can get a RESPIRATOR for 20 bucks, then buy your paint and spray. Tractor enamel, lacquer, base clear, or any other paint looks a million times better with a sprayer. Spray cans are $4.00 a can and that adds up quick. Plus, they only cover really thinly, and they usually only last for one year until you can start to see through the thin spots. The lines left by rollers and brushes scream out "hey look at me, I painted my truck with a roller" Do yourself a favor and get a cheap gun. You'll get the hang of it and get hooked.

Oh yea. Remember: Enamel over enamel = okay. Lacquer over enamel = a crinkled up mess that sucks the will to body work right out of ya. Most primers are lacquer.