The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline steering box issue - 1958 3100

Just completed my 1958 project and on test drives have an issue with the steering. I installed a freshly rebuilt original steering column and followed instructions in the service manual to adjust free play and resistance to turn. On the third test drive an issue developed where the free play dramatically increased (1/4 turn) and the column shaft seems to rotate up towards the driver slightly when the wheel turns, rotating back down when turned back...it's not a lot of up and down (maybe 1/4 inch) but enough not to be normal...

Any thoughts on diagnosis? Any way to fix short of removing the column?

Thanks in advance -

In general if you can pull up on the wheel and produce a clunk, the main shaft bearing has too much play. It sounds to me like you have something more serious going on.

If the worm gear is moving, which yours is if the steering wheel is rising when turning, then the worm thrust bearings are loose. Check the end cap and see if it has backed off. It could be the rebuilder didn't get the upper worm bearing race seated all the way and your driving around has finally seated the race letting the bearings get loose. Stop driving till you get this figured out!

Joe

If you did not disturb any cover plates/end plates and just adjusted per instructions, it does sound like a possible bad rebuild. Telling where you bought it may tell the story. Is the under dash clamp tight? Floor clamp? 3 Frame mounting bolts tight? Is there a universal joint involved?

Thanks gentlemen - much appreciated! It sounds like there's no easy fix and I need to pull the column and learn how to re-rebuild myself.I think I got the rebuilt column from LMC, but it was years ago at this point (7 year nut and bolt project).

I would first check the bearings Joe H suggested above. This can be easily be done without removing the box and column. All adjustments can be done with the box in place.

Sounds like an "end play" adjustment as said. If bearing/seal/bushing is still in place.

I welcome any repair that can be done in place, but am unsure how to "check the bearings with the box in place". I have (twice) gone through the service manual adjustment process (loosen side nut, back off pressure on bearings, adjust resistance by turning large end cap, etc. etc.). How would I check if bearings are in place without disassembly?

I very much appreciate everyone's input!

Been there done that- although in my case I went thru the adjustment process more than twice. It wasn't until I "rebuilt" my box for the second time I discovered my problem. The lower thrust bearing was cocked in its race. Each time I adjusted everything I removed all the free play and things seemed okay (not good but okay) but it didn't take long before there was excessive free play. I was very disappointed because I replaced everything I could including the somewhat difficult to replace bushings. I did remove the steering box for the second rebuild but upon discovering the problem it was apparent I could have fixed it just removing the large end cap and replacing the destroyed lower bearing and race. Your issue may be something entirely different but your description would point to something with those bearings as a starting point.

If you can repeat the problem after it is removed, that's what you want to do. BUT if you get it out and you can't feel the movement you describe, you will not know if it's fixed. That's why I gave a list of possibles other than the box itself. You have not verified those checks/questions..
If all is good regarding those checks and you feel like the slop will be evident on the bench, then remove and begin careful disassembly. If you installed the column then you know how to remove.
One more check I forgot, if the steering wheel is not on properly or washer not on or something up top is not assembled correctly it could possibly allow for slop.
More than likely it is internal box problem, just want to be sure before you dig into it that it is not an external issue.

Bartamos - apologies, I should have mentioned in the prior post that the column is in fact well secured at the frame, floor and dash. The slight upward movement is visible at the top of the shaft if someone slowly advances the pitman arm, so I do think it's within the column.

I will check the bearings this weekend to see if they are seated.

I'm glad you raised the issue of "the assembly up top", as I have guessed at how the parts fit together. The factory assembly manual shows a '55 column assembly, which is different than my '58 and not helpful. The '58 shop manual doesn't have a picture of this area and I have searched the net for any blow-up of how it came from the factory. I took lots of pics when I disassembled the truck but unfortunately not up close enough to this assembly. It seems pretty intuitive and unlikely to be causing my issue, but maybe not?

Just to be sure, the shaft is the internal shaft that is inside the tube. When you say upward movement is visible, do you mean the steering wheel moves up? The shaft with the threaded nut moves up? Does the bell move? Does the horn plate move up? Do you have the horn button off to watch shaft. Is steering wheel off? The 55.2 column is the same construction as the 58, albeit different length columns. Aren't your Assembly Manual and Maintenance Manual for 55-59? I have a Maintenance manual for 55-59.

The shaft has a worm gear on the end, inside the box. It drives a "ball nut" which drives a sector gear attached to the pitman shaft. There are two adjustments. Lash on the side and end play on the lower end. There is a bearing on the lower end and one on the upper end (of box). If the end play is loose or the upper or lower bearing is screwed up, the worm gear will move itself and the shaft up and down, instead of driving the pitman arm. The worm gear needs to be captivated between the two bearings. I have a clear picture in my book and I have the adjustment procedure if you need it.

The end play (big lock nutted screw on lower end) is done before lash. Lash is just the pitman shaft. Lash is "backlash". Lash will have nothing to do with your problem. Be sure you have the correct procedure for what to disconnect before adjustments. For end play/preload: It says unlock nut, to turn the big slotted adjusting screw "until all end play is removed". Then tighten lock nut.

I have the steering wheel/horn/mast bearing assembly picture also, with parts description. I agree, I don't see how any mis assembly or problem up there could cause this.

I remember taking one apart. I think I took the side plate off and watched how it worked and check the upper and lower bearing retention. I would be careful not to release the balls that are under the ball nut. Instead of the worm gear meshing directly with the sector gear, the balls do the meshing. The famous recirculating ball steering. Today called a ballscrew. Also similar to a linear bearing. These are used on precision CNC machines to translate.

Update - I removed the big lock-nutted screw and, as you suspected, the lower bearing had not been installed correctly and was out place and somewhat deformed. Once the new one is received and installed I am hopeful the issue will be resolved. In playing with it a little, the shaft moves up and down smoothly when pittman arm is attached and providing resistance; when disconnected and end screw lightly in place to capture the shaft, there is no up and down and the pittman arm moves freely/smoothly. Thanks for your help!

In response to your earlier questions - yes, the shaft inside the column/mast is what was moving up and down (wheel is removed). My assembly manual is 55-59 but really only 55-57; my shop manual is specific to 1958 and reflects minor changes made that year.

Good work. Probably a good result coming.