The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (klhansen, 87GN, tclederman, Stovebolt48, Peggy M, baldeagle, 1 invisible), 117 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,048
Posts1,055,666
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1241808 11/03/2017 3:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
As I have begun hand sanding my 1929 Chevy truck down to bare metal, I was wondering if I can use a soda blaster to sand the inside underneath side of the cab, firewall, etc .
These old trucks have pretty thick metal.
I've heard that soda blasting can stretch and warp the metal. I sure don't want to do that because it's in perfect shape with no dents so I need no filler at all on the cab.
Only a couple of spot weld areas that will fill with primer.
Attachments
first sanding.jpg (56.07 KB, 269 downloads)

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Soda blasting is great for removing paint, but does not remove rust. It might remove dusty rust, but does not cut and leave bare metal behind.

To remove rust use sand, glass, or something that cuts.

Any sort of blasting can warp thin metal if not done with care and understanding.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
What is the mildest abrasive? And can it be used in a soda blaster?

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
"I've heard that soda blasting can stretch and warp the metal."
Where did you read that (about a non-industrial-grade soda blaster)?
Nonetheless, for a variety of reasons, I got rid of my two soda blasters (sold them quickly on Craig's List).

In my large blast cabinet, the media is plastic-bead and alumina. I only blast relatively small items that have been cleaned of all paint, oils, and loose rust.

Luckily, I found an industrial blaster for the sheet metal (and frame) my last two trucks. They changed their media and technique/power to blast everything at an incredibly reasonable cost. Since they were used to using epoxy primer, they also "washed" and primed all pieces.

Another possible "industrial" blaster is a grave stone seller engraver.

Good luck choosing media for home open-blasting (or, in finding a consensus here, or on the Internet). The possibilities are similar to choosing a particular religion, or not.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522

I've used sand, glass, oxide, and plastic in my blasting cabinet. Unless its something real sensitive or delicate I personally use find sand that is made and sized specifically for blasting. (no river sand or play sand)
Common since goes a long way. Some practice on a couple scrap pieces will serve you well in adjusting the pressure, the distance from the piece and overall operation.

....while I do all I can in the cabinet I agree with Tim. I take the big pieces to the guys who do it for a living and do not be afraid to emphasize to them you want to be sure to get "straight" pieces back. It may sound tacky but it'll go a long way as they think while they blast.

Oh, I buy my sand from a local brick yard. $4.25 per 50 lb bag. Some concrete mixing places carry the real deal as well.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,214
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,214
Like Tim says, everyone has their favorite media. I use recycled broken glass bottles in my cabinet blaster and it seems to work well for me, not to rough on the part being blasted and still cuts the rust out.

Years ago I blasted everything myself outside with a pressure type blaster, but now I farm out the big stuff...they do it inside so weather isn't a factor and for a reasonable price. Lots less of a mess for me to clean up as well!

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 631
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 631
Dinodave.........time to do more research on the media and the guy you hire to blast the body.

Soda blasting done by the skilled operator is generally the least likely to damage sheet metal body parts. Watch a few of the shows on TV where the hood or doors came back from the blaster with waves or divots and determined to destroyed. Soda will remove paint and rust it just takes time. The faster the rust is removed the more likely the panel will damaged.

Frame and large heavy parts can me blasted with a multiple choice of media to archive fast removal or rust etc and leave a acceptable surface finish.

If your doing this DIY............Using regular sand has some serious health issue from silica. Yes safety is sissies

https://www.blastone.com/resources-...uide/abrasive-blasting-media-silica-sand

https://www.grainger.com/content/qt-abrasive-sand-blasting-and-silicosis-384

The use of silica sand as a blasting media is baned in many country's around the world, prominently Australia. Unfortunatly for the un-suspecting blasters silica sand is still sometimes used in the United States of America. A large number of research and hazard studies have been conducted that show the dangers and health implications of using silica sand.

For normal abrasive blasting it is never safe, not even when you are wearing an approved respirator. The only exception maybe in a fully contained blast and vacuum system where all possible precautions have been taken to minimise any possibe chance of exposure to personnel.

Blasting with silica sands, such as beach sand, river sand, and any other crystalline silica sand may cause serious injury or be fatal. Crystalline silica is recognized world-wide as a Class 1 Carcinogen. The silica sand type abrasive media when used in abrasive blasting, typically fractures into fine particles and becomes airborne. When workers inhale the crystalline silica, the lung tissue reacts by developing fibrotic nodules and scarring around the trapped silica particles [Silicosis and Silicate Disease Committee 1988]. This fibrotic condition of the lung is called silicosis.

Last edited by showkey; 11/05/2017 2:50 PM.
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
Well the scary stuff takes the fun out of this.
I'm actually enjoying bringing things down to bare metal by hand on the outside of the cab. It's very satisfying seeing what is accomplished at the end of the day with a little elbow grease.
I was just looking for a little easier and faster way of to get most of the rust off of the inside underneath the dash that is not visible and hard to get to.
Guess I'll continue on the hard way. I have a friend that has a soda blaster he said he will loan me to see if it will take SOME of the rust off to make it a little easier on me.
Any health issues with soda blasting?
I'm out elk hunting through the end of the week. First time I've wished elk hunting wasn't interfering with something else. I'd rather be working on my truck.
I'd like to post my progress as I work on my truck. What category do I post it under so I can update as I go along?
Thanks to everyone for your helping this rookie out.

Dave

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Dinodave, there is a Project Forum in the forums list and there is also a DIY forum here in the welcome centre. Its a "sub-title" at the top of the page. Either one of these you can post what you do and we can follow along with you. You can also make a single entry in the "What have you done on your bolt today" in the general truck forum if you just like to make a comment.
Either way just remember to ask pertinent questions in the garage forum so everyone can help when you need it.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 99
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 99
I don't know if you can get any copper slag locally. I can buy it here in the Phoenix area for about $12.00 for a 75 lb bag. It's a by-product of the copper mines. Looks like fine black sand. Very little dust. Cuts rust well, but will damage or warp sheet metal a lot like sand if you're not careful.

Geo

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Whatever type of abrasive you choose, blast at an angle to the 'tin', never directly at it, that will keep the heat and deformation to a minimum

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0