The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Killed the 216...

Well I've been hearing a tap in my truck the past couple days but i didn't think it was major, then yesterday driving the 41 the tap got louder and on my way home I was really concerned and was trying to make it home but it said no... spit the front piston out the side of the block and onto the road. Blew the alternator bracket off but the top one held on and just bent so alternator is ok.
Lots of people offered to help since it was old but there wasn't much they could do. But one man came by, got his trailer and hauled me home, there's still good people of there.

Can you believe that motor was still running when I pulled off? Sounded absolutely terrible but it was still running I had to shut it off!

So now it's motor swap time and I wanna put a 235 or 261 in or something. A guy came buy and said he had a running 1953 235 from his 5 window truck he'd sell me (he v8 swapped it) is that a ok year? What do I need to look for? Need suggestions

Hy Ian Ring, sorry to read the bad news about your 216, that 235 you've been offered sounds like an excellent replacement. The water pump location did not change till 55, it's still six volt, it might be almost a drop in. Good luck getting her back on the road. You are correct there still are good people out there who will lend a hand when someone needs help.

My vote is for a 261! Be patient when looking for one. They come up from time to time. A full pressure 235 would be my second choice, and are easier to come by. No sense going back with a 216 in my humble opinion. Others will chime in with more details regarding what to look for but most of your bolt on components will transfer over from your 216 to a 235 or a 261. Time for new clutch when your there, lol!

a 1953 235 would be a splash-oiler like your 216. For the work involved in an engine swap it would need to be virtually a freebie before I'd consider doing that. There's nothing wrong with a properly rebuilt and maintained splash-oiler, but you've already seen the results of ignoring a potential problem. Installing somebody's "good running" used engine without opening it up and doing a thorough inspection of the bottom end wouldn't be a wise choice. Dropping the oil pan and adjusting oil clearance on the rods at the first sign of a rattle was something people did routinely back when these things were daily drivers.
Jerry

What's the likely "cause of death" in a situation like that?

A connecting rod locks up due to debris getting wedged between the crankshaft and the big end of the rod, and torque throws the piston through the cylinder wall and the water jacket. Then the rod breaks off and the remains of it hammer around inside the crankcase. Keeping the oil clearance close enough to prevent the rod hammering on the crank journal prevents the damage that gets the process started. It was called called "throwing a rod" and it usually happened at high RPM on a heavy pull, particularly on big truck engines where lots of vehicle inertia helped the piston exit the engine.
Jerry

I First I'd get the engine number off the guys engine and check to see if it was original to his truck or something else. By a SLIM chance maybe his engine got swapped out some time ago and is one of the 53 235's with rod bearings??
Long shot but worth the small amount of time to find out.....but if its "cheap" then just pull the pan like HRL suggest.

Well Ian, welcome to the old iron club. Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance, that was the buzz word of the day back when. Look for a full pressure bearing engine. You will be glad you did. Fairly straight forward swap that’s been done thousands of times. We’re here to help.🛠

Guys I appreciate the support, a friend just messaged me on Facebook and said he had a 292 ready to go, can you bolt that up to the original type 4 speed? Will it fit in an Art Deco truck?

If it really is a 1953, the chances of it being high pressure are fairly slim. Believe it would have to be the powerglide version from a car. As Alvin said, get the numbers and go from there.

Someone much smarter than me can comment on the specifics of the 292 swap, but it's certainly going to be a lot more involved than the 235/261 swap.

Installing a 292 will involve a total driveline change, from radiator to rear end, so to speak. There are no shared items between the pre-1963 powertrain and the later models, and the 292 is slightly longer than the 216/235/261 series of engines. You'll need a high pressure radiator and heater core, and custom-fabricated motor mounts, crossmembers, and a different transmission, driveshaft and rear axle. Basically, you would have a post-1962 stuffed into an early frame, with brakes and possibly steering that would have to be totally rehabbed or replaced with more modern components to be safe at the speeds the 292 would be capable of achieving. It's doable, but get out the defibrillator for your checkbook!
Jerry

My only question is, why didn't you drive it the rest of the way home? Sure, a piston came out, but so what, it was still running. You couldn't have done any more damage to it. It was already toast.
Just think of the story you would have had to carry with you forever. Who could ever top that story!
If the '53 engine is an insert bearing, full oil pressure engine, there will be captains bars cast into the block above the starter (none on the driver's side).

I mean I could have tried but man it sounded terrible ... it woulda been a story though.

That's what I wandered with that 292 plus the one I was looking at is bored 60 over, way more than I need. Just want a good running later model 235

Also probably woulda potentially done a lot more damage haha

Ian, really sorry to hear about your truck. Just realized I met you briefly at the Allendale Show,- my blue ‘53 truck was parked beside yours! My advice is to begin searching for a 1954-1962 235 engine. The later the 235 engine the better, as improvements were made over the years. Also, parts and repairs are less expensive and available. I have heard good things about Performance Automotive/Machine Shop located in Greeneville. They may be able to help locate a 235 engine. I actually found mine in a JC scrap yard. Be prepared to spend some bucks for a proper rebuild, but it will bring you many miles and years of joy. I will send a pm if I find an engine for sale locally.
Don/RdsLessTaken

I'm just glad it didn't hurt anything else! it was great meeting you! We'll have to get together. Your 53 is beautiful! I'm searching for the years you specified and I'll check that machine shop

Another option is to find a different block. The ratio of good blocks to good heads is in favor of the blocks. The heads go bad a lot. If your head is good, you can find a block fairly easily. and most like for cheap.