I have a 1955 Chevy truck 3/4 ton that was picked up pretty cheap. However, it does need some work (actually a lot of work). I am hoping that Stovebolt will help me in advice on how to pursue this restore/build.
I am not looking for a hot rod or a street strip machine but more of a towing truck that would be nice to drive down the road.
My thoughts are to get it moving and perform resto work as I go. The box will come off and be restored slowly. A flat stake bed will take its place in the mean time. Buying new front quarter panels because the old ones are shot. Patch panels to fix the rest.
The original I6 and transmission has been removed unfortunately. However, I have a 350 Chevy and a TH350 transmission for it sitting in the garage. I am thinking of selling the TH350 and getting a manual transmission for it instead to keep the restored feel but don't know what manual transmission to go with.
The other problem I am having is the brakes as it is a 8 lug wheel pattern and I can't find a conversion to turn it to disks. I am thinking about just replacing the drum pads and picking up a better master cylinder with power brakes so it feels a little more modern.
I was going to hot rod it more but the more I look at this truck, the more I like it for what it is.
Thanks for looking.
Andrew
Last edited by Peggy M; 01/16/20241:35 AM. Reason: added more info to the title
Andrew, welcome to the Stovebolt. Remember, the longest journey begins with the first step. Looks like your well on your way. Let us know how we can help.
I know it has been a while since I have post my introduction. Again I have to get this project going (I got distracted by a stage rally car).
I live in the twin cities but the truck is in Janesville Minnesota. My goal is to get it running and back to the cities on its own power.
Plan is the same, install a 350 chevy with a 350th that I have. I have some brake and axle question I will post in the forums but want to say high again.
The weather is getting nice and probably up your way its getting "decent". Now is the time to for us to get going. Folks here are glad to help so go ahead and get the questions answered so you'll be ready
I finally have a house with a garage and have been waiting many years to start this project! It is so nice to have my own work space.
Have some stuff figured out and other stuff needs to be sorted out as we go along.
Again, what I have is a 1955 Chevy truck 3/4 ton without motor or transmission. Front end has been pulled apart to restore/fix the truck.
What I plan to do with the truck is actually use it like a truck. I have a 1998 Ford F150 with 250,000 miles that I want to retire. I do custom landscape projects for people and would like a truck that I can pull around a dump trailer. I am not doing a complete restoration on the truck. To me a complete restoration would take too much time, money, and I would be afraid to scratch the truck after I use it. This is not going to be a garage queen. I plan on using it.
To start with project ideas, in place of the I6 motor that use to be there will be a 455 Buick motor. This should be a good torquer motor for this truck plus it is nice to have the distributor toward the front of the truck.
Things that are on the back of my mind:
Front drum brakes - love to switch to disk and think I found a solution that uses Chevy 2000 3/4 ton diesel brakes. Rear floating rear end - this is a tricky deal as I think the gear ratio is 4.57 which is steep! Looks like there is a 4.11 option but that is as low as it goes. I would switch to a newer rear end out of a truck but it looks like they are wider than the stock unit. I am also wondering how well this rear end was built as it is a product of the 50s.
Transmission - Another tricky choice. I have the TH400 that the engine came with but matching that with a 4.57 sounds stupid. Looking toward the 4L80e for answers for a end drive of .75 with locking torque converter but is that enough? I don't plan on going 70 mph in it all day. but it would be nice to travel around 60-65. I am not doing any road trips in this truck.
Gas tank in bed of truck or behind the driver - don't know. Replacement tank is $150 which isn't that expensive. Mounting something else will take more time and probably more $$
Steering box - found a reducer ratio option. We will see how the steering is first.
Looking for suppliers for this truck. Can anyone name some places that carries parts for these trucks? So far I have Classicparts.com and LMCtruck.com.
Any more places people can recommend?
Below is a picture of truck. There will be more later on
Next step is to pull apart front suspension. Start Painting with POR15 and replacing the grease zerks with fresh ones.
Andrew, I've always said a truck will earn its keep while a car is a burden on a mans pocketbook. Sound like you have a plan. Any questions you have be sure to ask them in the garage forums for best results. We're here to help.
We like to read along and be sure to keep the pictures coming.
Edit August 2023 by Phak1: removed broken picture links. Leaving as a placeholder and trying to contact Andrew to see about adding images via Attachment Manager. This thread was moved from Project Journals to DITY Gallery.
Figured it was time to start posting about this project as we are making good progress
Project is a 3/4-ton 1955 Chevy Truck
The new garage that I can work out of is a 2 + 1/2 Stall. Later in the summer I got the truck off the farm, put it in the garage and started the restoration process.
Stripped the suspension and started cleaning the parts for paint. Ordered new bushings, new wearable parts.
Cab is next. I was originally going to go with the cab that i have and make/buy patch panels to fix it. Ebay changed all of that. After browsing I found a 1957 cab in Albert Lea that the bottom was in decent shape, not perfect but better than what I had. Only catch is that the upper windshield seam is complete rusted. The original cab has the good roof. That means that the BIG project is switching roofs from one cab onto another.
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This is where I need help or input from you experience people because I am trying to figure out where to make the cuts in the cab.
Windshield Still In [image]
Windshield Still Out [image]
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Doors off and starting on dash [image]
Cabs side by side [image]
Stripping Dash [image]
After MANY removal of spot welds dash is out [image]
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NOW Contemplating where to remove the roof. I am thinking Option 3 as the A pillars are still good [image]
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I don't know if you can see it in one of the pictures but I want to remove the cab roof on the inside seam just right above the back window. SO how do I access that seam and is it spot welded together?
Since this is where you keep us updated, you may want to ask a specific question in the paint and body for more responses. We can keep up as you go along not necessarily asking questions but leaving a build thread. Questions in general should be ask in the garage forums.
I do like your documentation and if I was doing the same thing following your journal would be idea.
Progress was made last night. Started cleaning up the frame rails now that they are free from all the steering components
Also started cleaning up the steering components.
I have ordered some parts for the truck. I was an optimist and thought that the 1/2 ton tie rod ends could be used on the 3/4 ton. Take note, THEY DO NOT FIT. The 1/2 tons are 9/16 and the 3/4 ton are 11/16. So far I thought Chevy crossed over a lot of parts so one would think that they would have used the 1/2 ton OR the 1 ton components. Nope the 3/4 ton have ball joints of their own. And I can't find any modern replacement.
SO starting the brain storming. I believe that if a wearable item is going to be used, it should be easily found off the shelf. Not hard to hunt down.
It looks like the 1 ton and the 1.5 ton tie rod ends work HOWEVER I need the Tie Rod bar... The reason is because the 1 ton tie rod ends are Male and the 3/4 ton tie rods ends are female. And they are right to my surprise, you CAN find the tie rods online for these old trucks pretty easily. They must have crossed over from another truck. However I can't find the tie rod bar.
There is a right and a left so I am wondering if one of them is a reverse thread so you can aligning the wheels easier.
SO the hold up is either finding a 1 ton bar (which is pretty hard to find) or trying to make one. Only lead for making one is a description of the thread of .812 x 18 inch (again checking if one is reverse thread.) THEN it is having it machined because I can't find a sleeve.
The other idea
finding 1/2 ton spindle to tie rod brackets (don't remember what they are specifically called) because the spindle holes are the same. The 1/2 ton tie rod ends are available and so is the bar
However I don't like the idea downgrading, I rather toughen up the suspension with heavier duty components if possible.
I have a Saginaw Power steering box laying around that we will be using. I like this because we will have more room in the engine bay. I am a little concerned about it being outside of the frame rail and hope that the tire won't interfere.
The old steering box and column is out. I didn't know that they were one piece so the poor steering box has a couple of hammer marks on it. After a little research it is one piece, disassembled the steering wheel column from the cabin and pulled it out from the engine bay.
The article recommends using a steering column from a 70s van... However they are hard to find in the junk yard now. Summit carries one with a side shifter for about $200 that looks like it might work.
I have never done a replacement king pin before. All the grease is gummy from age. The grease fittings are being replaced. One spindle is somewhat free and the other is seized. However it did turn when we put it on a trailer.
Started on the disassembly process. The key pin came out with force. Almost mushroomed one of the pins by hammering on it. The king pins I think are going to have to be pressed out. Bushings I imagine are going to have to be the same way.
SO when we ordered the kit, this isn't a match kit. What I learned is that we are going to have to press the bushing in. After that they are going to have to be aligned reamed to .923" The reamer has a part number.... but..... I doubt I will find it. I think I might have to have to find the help of a machine shop.
I have a new respect for Old mechanics. They had to be machinist.
I am sure this is still standard procedure on heavy commercial equipment.
I had my king pins and spindles installed at a truck spring manufacturer I have used to make replacement leaf springs for my truck. I thought the price pretty fair and they had everything to do the job right since they rebuild big rig front ends and more. I have a 3 ton arbor press and the necessary knowledge to do it but it was so much easier to pay someone to disassemble it and reassemble it all, shims and all. Trying to hold everything together to press the pin in seemed like a real study in creative cursing to me.
Edit August 2023 by Phak1: removed broken picture links. Leaving as a placeholder and trying to contact Andrew to see about adding images via Attachment Manager. This thread was moved from Project Journals to DITY Gallery.
I think that is what I am going to have to do is find a shop. However this seams to be a lost art as I went to 3 places and none of them have aligned reamed or have even replaced king pins. So i have to find the OLD mechanic or like mentioned maybe a heavy truck repair can do that
The test tie rod end had showed up [image]
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Modern/durable design, more room for tires, easy to find, seems like this will work. Only problem still finding the tie rod bar. Other option is that I might have to find weldable bungs and cut a bar to fit. still trying to find 13/16 -18 threads
On to the cab, I decided to dive right into it. I cut the roof off the 57 cab to expose the mouse nest that caused the problem to start. I lifted the roof off. [image]
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I was going to cut all the spot welds in the roof but after trying to cut a couple i knew that was going to take too long. After some advice I got the trusty 4.5 angle grinder and cut inside the drip rail. It worked perfectly. I did come through in 2 spots but that will be easy to weld back up.
Under the roof was more rusty than I thought. i was trying to figure out if they had even painted it or if it was just bare metal. It looks like bare metal. Before we put the roof back on POR15 will coat the rust first to seal it all up.
I actually had to do the same thing on my truck. It looks like you are on to the right track with the repair. I went ahead and ordered new inner and outer roof panels and replaced both. I basically just followed the seams of the panels from the factory and drilled out all of the spot welds, cut along the brazed joints on the A-pillars, and removed the panels in two big pieces.
Not sure if it's too late by now, but I would suggest mounting the doors before you cut out the inner roof panel. This gave me a good reference on fitment when I was putting the new roof together and making sure the top of door gaps were somewhat correct. Definitely put some kind of paint on the inside of the panels before you weld everything back up, I just put two coasts of epoxy primer on them. Another thing I did before welding the outer roof panel on was to run new dome light, and speaker wires up the A-piller and to their respective locations. I figured this would be the easiest time to do that with everything open and easy to place the new wires. I also lined the underside of the outer panel with Dynamat and Dynaliner. No idea if both were necessary, expensive...sure a little, but this project is stretching out over a long period of time so cost wasn't too big a deal to me.
For me this was the most daunting work to do on the cab initially, but turned out to be one of the easiest jobs to do.
Here are some pictures from my project doing the roof swap: 1957 GMC Roof Swap
Thank you gumbi for the pictures. I have been searching all over the internet on people taking the roof off these trucks. It looks like you had the same problems. Good Idea on the doors as I even heard the factory fitment can be off. This would be a good way on fixing that problem. Again as I take this apart, it is fun to analyse the assembly process for the truck.
I was wondering if I had to take the whole inner skin out or could I just replace the front. However I would have to work around the corner bracing so the whole inner skin might still have to come out anyway.
I could buy the whole inner panel Which looks like it has the front A pillar bracing with it. But trying to save money a little here and there so I was wondering if I could get away with just the front inner panel.
I haven't been feeling well this week so the progress has slowed up a little
I was inspired by the jig in gumbi pictures and so I made one for the front window
Jig Made in the Original Cab [image]
Jig fitment in the donor cab [image]
that way I know where that seam has to sit when I am taking everything apart. I might make 2 more braces for the upper part.
on the assembly of the roof, there is a mid section between the outer roof and the inner roof just above the front windshield. Did you buy a new one of those? And how and when did you install that? When the outer roof was out?
And the 2nd question is after you welded the pieces back together, did you braze them smooth like the factory did with led or did you use another method?
You might be able to get away with only buying that front portion of the inner roof panel if that is the only portion that needs to be replaced. But like you mentioned you will have to deal with the issue if that smaller panel has the extra reinforcing pieces on the back side, or if it doesn't you will need to try and save those on the old panels and spot weld them onto the new. I would call Classic Parts and ask if the new panel has those pieces, it might.
Your jig looks really good for keeping the windshield opening correct. You might want to throw in some cross bracing on the inside of the cab from corner to corner and in between the door openings as well. This will help keep the cab square once the roof is off. I've seen people go without this bracing when they are chopping the cab, but I feel like that just leaves the door open for things getting squirlly and all kind of fitment issues down the road and more work, my opinion.
Question1: I assume you are talking about this panel shown in the picture? So this section actually comes as a part of the new outer roof skin. I was worried about it too until I saw it on the new one. There is another member on here MP&C who has shown how to make this with a metal shrinker and stretcher, and I want to say that I think I've seen this piece new on eBay from some sellers. On the instillation part you just clamp the inner and outer panels together with a sh**load of vise grips. Before I clamped them together I used one of those pneumatic metal hole punchers from harbor freight to punch spot weld holes about every 1.5 inches or so around the outer roof skin. Use the factory assembly manual on a guide on how many and where you need the new spot welds.
Question2: I did not braze the new joints together. Wish I did and knew how too, but I just welded the seams and then ground smooth with a roloc disc. Eventually before I go on to painting the cab I will use a seam sealer from 3M in the drip rails to make sure nothing leaks.
Edit August 2023 by Phak1: removed broken picture links. Leaving as a placeholder and trying to contact Andrew to see about adding images via Attachment Manager. This thread was moved from Project Journals to DITY Gallery.
Made progress since last post.
To save on confusion I have reduced the Cab count. We are now down to one.
Frame of truck
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I stripped the frame down and painting is going to be following soon. The plan is to do the front half first flip the truck in the garage and then do the rear half. The old cab (Rest In Pieces) is in the back box of the truck. One of the good things of working on a truck. The Red cab is flipped on the back side so I can clean the underside of the cab. It is actually in pretty good condition.
Cab Flipped
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Scraping away
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Replying to Gumbi
I was inspired by your cross framing the truck! I am going to be doing that but thoughts happened as beers were served, I was going to do that on the stand but I am thinking I want it bolted onto the frame first to make sure cab is straight.
Work flow:
Paint frame Paint underside of truck Mount cab on frame to make sure frame/cab is straight on frame Cross brace cab Remove inner roof
And so on
Not pictured but added were some more points on the jig for reference where the upper seam goes.
*Just to clarify the area I was mentioning for the lead filling, this is the area between the roof and the A pillar. I removed the lead filler that was there from the factory. It looks like the seams won't/don't line up very well, thats why they had to use the lead filler. So you just lined them up and sanded it smooth? I hope mine line up as good.
