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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | Can 100% Silicon be used for seam sealer in areas where it won't be painted? Or is there another product that should be used instead? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Why not just use seam sealer? Silicone degrades after a while.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Yeah, don't use silicone. There are plenty of seam sealers available that will last longer. Lots of silicone sealant is also corrosive. The ones that smell like vinegar when you open them. I think it's acetic acid.
I used a self leveling seam sealer from SEM when I did the drip rail on my '65 and and a 3M sealer for other areas of cab. Both worked well. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | mummdogg,
I used a sealer called Fast&Firm..I think it's a 3M product. It is one of many professional sealers found at your local auto paint store.
I would recommend that you DON'T use this one! while it was FAST, it was too FIRM..it cracked after only several months.
I think flexibility is the name of the game with seam sealers. If they get hard and crack, the door is open to all kinds of things that you don't want in there!
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | Stuart...A friend of mine who owns a body shop said the exact same thing about Fast & Firm, about how it shrinks and cracks. The reason I mentioned silicone is because I still have a ton of it left. I'm all about using something else if silicone is not the ticket. Just thought maybe I could use it up.
Thanks alot,
~Ron | | | | | Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 | There are a number of REAL automotive products, choose the right one and use it before using the left over bath tub caulking.  Fast-n-Firm has a place, not everywhere but a place. "Self leveling" has a place, NOT everywhere (it is too runny for large gaps) but it has a place. Use a good old 1K urethane seam sealer is pretty hard to beat in most cases. 3M #08360 is what we use at work when we are not using a 2K seam sealer which is the best but requires a gun that is about 50 bucks. Brian
1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | On the gun for 2 part sealant, the shop I bought my stuff from loaned me the gun. Just had to leave a deposit. So you may want to ask about that too. | | |
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