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#123385 12/05/2006 5:25 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
Shop Shark
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M Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
Can 100% Silicon be used for seam sealer in areas where it won't be painted? Or is there another product that should be used instead?

#123386 12/05/2006 7:52 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 128
L
Wrench Fetcher
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Use 3M Window-Weld super fast urethane windshield adhesive... comes in caulking tubes.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mwinsupfasu.html

Lee


-----------
1965 Chevy C-10 Gallery page
My Chevy truck pages more info and pictures!
1961 Studebaker Hawk
1962 Shasta 16' AirFlyte Travel Trailer
1941 Case Model S tractor
#123387 12/06/2006 11:26 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
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Why not just use seam sealer? Silicone degrades after a while.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#123388 12/07/2006 12:30 AM
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M
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Yeah, don't use silicone. There are plenty of seam sealers available that will last longer. Lots of silicone sealant is also corrosive. The ones that smell like vinegar when you open them. I think it's acetic acid.
I used a self leveling seam sealer from SEM when I did the drip rail on my '65 and and a 3M sealer for other areas of cab. Both worked well.


Tradin' up dimes for nickels...
'`'`'`'`'`'`
My \'65 Chevy C-20
#123389 12/07/2006 1:24 AM
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A
'Bolter
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mummdogg,


I used a sealer called Fast&Firm..I think it's a 3M product. It is one of many professional sealers found at your local auto paint store.

I would recommend that you DON'T use this one! while it was FAST, it was too FIRM..it cracked after only several months.

I think flexibility is the name of the game with seam sealers. If they get hard and crack, the door is open to all kinds of things that you don't want in there!

Stuart

#123390 12/07/2006 2:51 PM
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M
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Stuart...A friend of mine who owns a body shop said the exact same thing about Fast & Firm, about how it shrinks and cracks. The reason I mentioned silicone is because I still have a ton of it left. I'm all about using something else if silicone is not the ticket. Just thought maybe I could use it up.
Thanks alot,
~Ron

#123391 12/07/2006 4:40 PM
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M
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There are a number of REAL automotive products, choose the right one and use it before using the left over bath tub caulking. smile

Fast-n-Firm has a place, not everywhere but a place. "Self leveling" has a place, NOT everywhere (it is too runny for large gaps) but it has a place.

Use a good old 1K urethane seam sealer is pretty hard to beat in most cases. 3M #08360 is what we use at work when we are not using a 2K seam sealer which is the best but requires a gun that is about 50 bucks.

Brian


1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
#123392 12/08/2006 3:07 PM
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M
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On the gun for 2 part sealant, the shop I bought my stuff from loaned me the gun. Just had to leave a deposit. So you may want to ask about that too.


Tradin' up dimes for nickels...
'`'`'`'`'`'`
My \'65 Chevy C-20

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