The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Bill Hanlon, Gdads51, Otto Skorzeny), 138 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,164
Posts1,056,982
Members48,458
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
So I was digging through my precious collection of clutch heads and all I had left of the size I needed was a couple of damaged ones.
I figured if I can fix a sandwich, I can fix a clutch head.
They typically form a burr from the wrong driver being used or from the proper driver camming out from it being frozen with rust.
I put them in my vice which I have made copper jaw inserts for, and tighten the bolt in place without damaging the threads.
I then used a body hammer to hit straight down on the head, working the burred metal back to where it belongs. I was surprised how well it worked. They now work just as well as undamaged ones.
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 10/22/2016 4:30 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
Clever thinking.
Jeffrey

Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
Ha ha, the best way to "fix" those stinking clutch head screws is to replace them with allen head screws!

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
Originally Posted by Jay Zee
Ha ha, the best way to "fix" those stinking clutch head screws is to replace them with allen head screws!

I've seen too many of those get stripped out.
Jeffrey

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
Torx would be better, but clutch heads are iconic.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
Allen heads don't strip out. You're probably thinking of Phillips head.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
I have stripped all types of screw heads - using the wrong size/type driver/remover head, and/or when the screw is rusted, and/or when the head is deformed (veyy coomon with abused clutch head screws).

The clutch head screw is a superior design to a slotted head and/or a Phillips head.

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Nice advice, Kent

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
The old ones are good....however I have found that some of the new repops that you buy are not "deep" enough to get a good bite....but we all know about repop stuff.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
I bought SS rear fender clutch head bolts and they aren't the same size as the originals. In fact there isn't a clutch head bit/driver which fits them correctly. They do look nice though.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 164
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 164
Carl, that's when you get inventive and create your own clutch head driver

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
I didn't need to in my case. The inside of my bed has bedliner on it which grabs the bolt head/washer allowing me to just tighten the nuts. I had an assortment of slot screwdrivers at the ready just in case.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 370
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 370
While I've seen Clutch heads before and once had a Yankey screwdriver that had clutchhead tips. I changed mine out for Phillips head just so the next owner won't have to spend $35 on a driver and 4 sizes to remove 8 screws.

By far my favorite is a torx head.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Spend the $20 and give the set as a gift to the new owner (put it in the glove box).


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0