The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Strong fuel smell in garage after driving

I have 54 235 with all new fuel components. From the frame up it's all new parts because it's a daily driver. I have installed Tom Langdons dual carb set up 2 years ago. Truck runs great. We live in Tucson so it's always HOT. My problem is this. When you go out for a drive of an hour or so and park in the garage, the fuel smell will knock you down when you come from the house back into the garage. I was a mechanic for 35 years and there is no problem like this with fuel injection because it is pretty much a closed system. All fumes are caught by the charcoal canister then recycled back into the intake the next time you run the motor. Tom Langdons carbs have an open float bowl vent tube. So in this Arizona heat the fuel really evaporates and boils in the carbs. THIS is my question or answer to this problem. Can you run rubber lines from these vent tubes out the bottom of the air filter housing to a charcoal canister and use a purge valve to open the sealed system back up when you start the motor again? This should help with the fumes I think and still be able to vent the float bowl when the motor is running. Let me know what you guys think of this idea or am I all wet?

Thanks for all the help
Tony

It should work, really no different then any other vapor catch system. My fuel tank vent smelled really bad, so I gathered a couple of old charcoal canisters and emptied them into a large glass jar. I then soldered two tubes in the lid, one long and one short. On the long tube I added a small filter and hooked it to the tank vent. The other tube has a hose going to the atmosphere. Most all my vapor smells went away, and the charcoal is self cleaning since the fuel pump is pulling air into the tank through the charcoal and filter.

A lot of what you are smelling is fuel left in the intake. Try leaning it out a bit, my dual W-1's smelled pretty bad till I leaned the idle mixture. Letting it set outside for 5 or 10 minutes also helps dry out the intake. The little bit of running into the garage doesn't create quite as much stink on my truck.

With dual carbs replacing the original single, it might be hard to get it lean enough, worth trying, though. What color is the inside of exhaust pipe when shut down after a hard run?

Ed

I have that problem with every vehicle I put in the garage that doesn't have an evaporator system. I have put a system on the vehicle if it has a vent tube on the carb. Sometimes I have to put a wet towel over the carb/s to soak up the fumes. My garage is under the house & the odor gets in the house.

Also check the gasket on the tank sender. I've had problems with these not sealing. Good luck

Answer to some of your replies. 1) there are no fumes inside cab so I believe the hoses and sender are sealed well. 2)The tailpipe has always been black with the single carb and with the duals after a long hwy drive.
3) Did you get your evaporator system from used cars or was it a specific model of car?
Thanks for the the great ideas.
Tony

Answer to # 3. I get them at the salvage yard. Look for older models that have 2 or 3 outlets.

I second JiMerit's tip to check the gasket on your fuel tank sender. Mine was torn & the garage reeked of gas. Replaced it and the smell is gone.

Thanks Wrenchbender I try the salvage yards for parts. The tank unit has a new gasket and there is no smell inside cab.
Thanks all
Tony

update on fuel smell. I cannot find any tubes that run out of the float chamber. Tom Langdon's carbs have an electric solenoid in place to block routing of the float chamber exit. There is also a ball bearing pushed in the hole that I believe a tube would exit. Looks like this is going to be a real head scratcher. The trigger wire has also been cut off the solenoid. On an older version I saw that there was a tube that exited where the ball bearing is now. This updated stuff really sucks.
Tony

Tom Langdon sells/sold a variety of carburetors.

Which model/type carbs are you referring to?

What size engine are you using them on?

Toms SKU number was 08-8011
Metal tag on carb says E2EF J2A
A3J 1



printed in ink on carb is 2244

They are 2 barrel progressive, electric chokes, Sold on July 18 2013 $180.00 Carter / Weber
on a 1956 235 hydraulic lifter motor

I hope this helps Tim

How do you have the electric chokes set-up (powered)?

Fused 12 volt lines