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#1224156 07/07/2017 12:52 AM
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'Bolter
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Too much play over the years has worn the grooved ends of my door handle and the axle it's mounted on. I'm thinking some tape around the end to get a more snug fit? Any one have any great success with this? I was thinking perhaps some aluminum muffler tape?


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
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There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
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K
'Bolter
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Is there not a set screw to hold the handle tight.the handles I think are a white metal and one would have to be careful tightening the set screw


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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Shop Shark
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If the handle has been loose for a while the metal will be worn away and a new set screw(s) won't hold it.
Other than buying a replacement, one thing that has worked for me is to clean out the inside of the handle (very clean).
Cut a shaft off a junk regulator or latch and brush a good coat of grease on it( Not so thick it fills in the splines). Mix some JB weld epoxy and coat the worn out splines in the handle BELOW the setscrew.
If you get the get up into the groove on the shaft for the set screw and the shaft won't come out.
Press the shaft into place and let it dry overnight. Pull the shaft out and install the handle with a good set screw and set screw lock.
I've had that fix last very well on several vehicles.

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'Bolter
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Thanks Jim - That sounds like a pretty good fix. I built the end up with some aluminum tape for now and it's much firmer, although temporary. I just need to take some of the slack out for inspection.


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
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Sir Searchalot
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Cheap repair to handle the right way.

Typical worn out splines, that's all. Don't want to get trapped inside in an emergency, when the tape slips.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by bartamos
Cheap repair to handle the right way.

Typical worn out splines, that's all. Don't want to get trapped inside in an emergency, when the tape slips.

Only problem with those reproduction parts is that the handles are made wrong in a number of ways.
1) There is only one long screw (which is metric!) and no lock screw as original, so they wiggle loose.
2) If you push the handle all of the way on, the set screw won't engage with the annular groove on the spindle. They don't stay on long that way.
3) If you push the handle part of the way on so that the set screw engages the annular groove, there won't be enough spline engagement on the spindle to crank the window up or down.
Other than that, they are real shiny and pretty...even when they end up on the floor when you slam the door. smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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I have not had all that trouble. Maybe space it out with these and double up with this or locktite......

But finding original donor parts is certainly an option, IF you know what you are looking at and don't buy an old aftermarket one thinking it's orig.
Maybe you have used an orig with an aftermarket. Maybe if both are aftermarket, they fit?


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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Right or wrong carl is on to something. I could have said the same thing. The big problem is the groves are set much deeper than original. All have to do is compare the two.


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He is on something alright.


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Where's the smiley face, man?!

Last edited by 52Carl; 07/09/2017 2:18 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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(,"


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn

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