The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Water in oil

Every time I change the oil in my rebuilt 1955 235, after I let the oil set for about six hours in a clear container I notice water at the bottom of the container. The oil isn't murky which would make me assume a bad head gasket. Additionally the coolant level stays the same. The water is clear and not the color of antifreeze. The engine doesn't have a oil filter and the amount of water that is present is less than a pint. The engine runs great so any advice as to whats going on.

Could it be fuel from flooding and not actually water? Is your coolant at the correct mix of 50-50? (I understand level is not changing) What color was the coolant that you poured into your radiator? Just curious because where would clear "water" come from in your engine.

Chris

I had some actual seepage from head gasket on a motor I assembled, fix was to pull each head bolt and coat the threads with Teflon dope and retorque, been no issues since.

It's just condensation. These old engines didn't have a PCV system. Make sure your vent system is good. You must have a vent cap on the valve cover. Make sure the road draft tube is clean & clear. If you are not losing coolant & you have no white smoke out the tail pipe, you are OK. Gasoline would mix with the oil & not separate.

The coolant was dark green and doesn't need to be mixed. I was thinking condensation, I'll check the draft tube for cleanliness. As always thank you gentlemen for your input.

Converting to a PCV ventilation system would be the permanent solution. It eliminates the road draft tube, and the better systems use a sealed oil fill cap and draw filtered ventilation air from the "clean" side of the air filter. I did dozens of that type of conversion back in the mid-1970's when California mandated that all vehicles had to be retrofitted to a closed crankcase system. The crankcase vapors will be drawn into the intake and purged through the muffler and tailpipe.
Jerry

Rick,
Another point to mention regarding the ventilation, or lack of; the truck needs to be driven when the engine is running for the system to work. I am convinced my practice of idling my truck engine in the yard 6 years ago to "circulate" everything (show folks the engine, et cetera ) caused more harm than good.

You are exactly half way between here & my hometown where I hope to be driving my 55.2 235 in a month or so...
I may be in touch. Good luck.

Brad

Following on from Brad's advice: it might cost you less than a PCV system to drive your truck in high gear for 20-30 minutes at high speed at the end of any low-speed or short-run trip.

I have no PCV set-up on any of my small trucks, and I never have water in my oil.

Hey, Brad- - - - -I hope that engine is back in running shape again!
Jerry

One of the worst things one can do is short trips, as above, getout and drive it, and just not around the block, an hour at least, that will burn the water out, normal combustion generates about as much water as fuel burned, so that adds to the system if it is not burned out.

Ed

Could just be Alabama humidity and not enough driving like you stole it to cook off the condensation.

Well, I learned something new today! Thanks guys!

Chris

I added a PCV setup to my 49 216 primarily to combat the cold weather condensation build up it would get. Changed out the 160 thermostat to a 180 thinking more engine heat would help too. Neither did. Altho I believe the PCV mod is an improvement over the draft tube so I kept it, I dropped back down to the 160.

In warm weather the 216 will blow out upto a cup of clear water out the tail pipe while it warms up but no condensation in the valve cover. In cold weather I get the same plus a milky residue in the valve cover right at the oil fill and on the dip stick.

I attribute it to the massive blowby the engine has. I runs great and I drive it year round so I don't sweat it. I just make sure I take it out and run it for at least an hr once a week and it does us both good to do so.

I added an overflow reservoir for the coolant and so far I haven't had top add any antifreeze so I'm certain it's condensation and not any coolant leaking.

Mr. Jerry, I'm sure you'll be hearing from me once I get time to put the engine back in the truck... it should be a plug & play operation this go around, but I'd like one of your "real-time/real-world" practical application engine courses if we can arrange it again. You've got the knack for making those events 0.01% as stressful!

Rick, this is a good thread & I don't mean to blabber in the middle of it. Ed adds an excellent science fact to further clarify the theme of "driving it like you stole it" to get rid of condensate.

With the temperature fluctuations since last summer a pint of water is not alarming if there hasn't been a recent oil change (as in, this year).

Brad

Excess condensation in the crankcase which cannot be alleviated by long drives (or driving like you stole it) and by the road draft tube/PCV system would indicate excessive blow-by past the pistons from too much ring/cylinder wear.
(All of this has already been said. I thought I'd put it all in one run-on sentence.)