My tool collection just got better. I was the only bidder on this older Rockwell Drill Press.
I didn't get it for bottom dollar like some of you lucky folks. There were miscellaneous auction fees and I had to rent a Uhaul trailer to get my items home. So it wasn't the deal of the century, but I think I got a fair deal at $175 all said and done. Came out of a machine shop that the bank closed down. I also bought a metal cabinet and 2 wooden ladders, one is 12'. Both are Werner. Here is the Photobucket album with all the drill press photos.
My friend and I think my new drill press has a bad chuck. I can't figure out how to make the keyless chuck tighten enough to hold the drill bit tightly. The chuck jaws close and open easily. However, the thinner knurled ring at the top spins freely and I'm afraid that might be the problem. Maybe that's why nobody else was bidding on it? Is the chuck bad? What does the top ring do?
***EDIT*** I talked with the LlambrichUSA salesman. He said the top chuck ring is held in place while the bottom knurled section is used to tighten the chuck jaws. Mine is obviously broken somehow because it does not work. Now I have to figure out how to remove the chuck and get a new one.
Recently bought a pair of Vehicle Display Ramps, each has two long legs and a short one. Drive on and up, then it tips over to level. I figure it will help this old man to work off the floor. Been eyeballing one for many years. Bought for under $100..
"Nothing is ever as simple as just turning wrenches!"
Now I have to figure out how to remove the chuck and get a new one.
There may be a screw holding it to the spindle in the center. If so, remove that, then chuck an allen wrench (largest you can find) in it and use that to unscrew the chuck. At least that's the way a hand drill I have worked when I recently replaced the binding chuck on it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Last tool I bought was a ball joint press set. Only problem is it didn't have the correct sleeves for my 2002 Dakota, so I had to make some out of pipe to remove and install the lower ball joint. Also, had trouble getting the right size inner tie rod tool to fit. Had to file the opening on the removal tool. Maybe Chrysler has odd ball sizes... I don't know.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Last thing tool related that I bought was a 20 piece set of mill bits for the new to me (free) three axis mill I got about 7 years ago. It's taken me this long to actually buy some bits for it so I could use it for something other than a drill press. I finally had a project that could only be done on the mill, so I needed the mill bits.
It's made in Taiwan, imported by Jet Equipment & Tools out of Tacoma, WA. Model JET - 15 drilling & milling machine.
It has 8 speeds ranging from 160 - 1800 rpm using a 1/2 hp, 110 vac motor.
A mill will usually get you a lot of friends that need things made!
LOL!! Don't I know that! I've already had several requests.
What finally made me get the mill bits was a request for help on a project from my daughter. Hard to turn her down. She's not the run-of-the-mill Girly Girl. She gets her hands dirty turning wrenches when she needs to.
Here's one of her recent projects. She was tired of all the oil leaks on her Harley, so she tore it down to replace all the top end gaskets and install new rings. The first picture was Thursday morning, after tearing it down. The second picture is Thursday evening when she stopped for the night. The last picture was Friday evening right after she fired it up and took it for a test ride.
62stick, For a minute there, I thought you had posted pictures of MY motorcycle. Your daughter's HD is the same color, tank and seat as mine. It's remarkable. I had to do a double-take. LOL!! Jay
I just acquired a set of broaching tools for making Woodruff keyways. With an arbor press and some anti-sieze compound, making key slots is now a pretty simple operation. It sure beats a hacksaw and some narrow files! I also got a few milling cutters for making the half-moon slots for the keys. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Bought a 2 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight a while back. Finally put it to use today after loaning it to a friend to use on his boat motor. It's the style with fold up legs, but the main part has casters that are not on a plane. With 3 casters on the ground the forth is just over 1/2 inch above the floor. Still works OK - used it to pull the front clip. front clip removal Also build a Deve-style engine cart. Used 1-1/2" square tube steel I scrounged up and some casters from a 1000 lb HF moving cart (cost about what two casters would.) engine cart
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Bought a pair of nut splitters on clearance for $1.99 at Tractor Supply last Friday. Used the small one yesterday to split the nut holding one of my tailgate chains.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I've never owned a timing light, nor a tachometer. So I bought a digital timing light that also has a tach. Pretty cool! It's nice to not only adjust the ignition timing on my truck (first time I've ever done that), but to know my idle speed while making those adjustments.
Ol'Red, now you need a Dwell Meter to help with setting points. Then you will be stylin and profilen and a real fulltime Stovebolter!
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I got tired of working on my modern fuel injection motors and all the while THINKING I had a fuel pressure gauge. Finally got one of those to help with engine diagnostics.
New Black and Decker orbital sander and a nice Kobalt 4 drawer tool box.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Daughter and son in law gave me a new tool/toy for Christmas.
A FLIR One Infrared camera attachment for my iPhone. Finding missing cylinders when I finally get to engine work on the stovebolt will be a snap. With this gizmo, you can SEE cooler exhaust ports.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A new 2' pull bar. I put it with my little new "trolley jack" for traveling. Using the ones the manufacturers put in in is a joke in most cases.......I also got a new 1/2" Cobalt, and there 3/8" drill driver from Lowes and I'm thinking about carrying the 1/2" driver with the jack. I'm just getting to old, or lazy, to contend with what the OEM gives me!
I got a new set of "Tamper Torx" wrenches. Basically a set of Torx wrenches with a hole drilled in the end to fit those security bolts with the pin in the middle. This set fits sizes T10 through T40. I needed it for working on my wife's van.
Pretty weak, but I'll use about anything as an excuse to acquire a new tool.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I need to replace the ignition switch in her 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and the danged thing is not only metric, but once you strip away all the plastic surrounding the steering column, it's held in with the Tamper Torx. I've never needed them for anything else. I prefer good old American Iron, not metric boxes, but she wants her van to run, go figure.
I've had tamper torx for years. I don't think I've ever used them on the matching fasteners. Although, I have been tempted to take out the screws on the bathrooms stalls as a joke. I did pick up a set of medium deep, 3/8" drive standard sockets. Those will come in handy on more than one occasion. I also picked up a 2' long, 1/2" drive ratchet for the race car. Time to find and engraver/etcher to have the team name put on the thing. That way, if it gets stolen, the thieves will know who they stole it from!
Figured with all the body work I'm doing, I should pick up a slapper file. We'll see if it ever makes it out of the wrapper. Also got a Snap On, 24", fixed head, 1/2" drive ratchet to use as a back down bar for the race car. Had it engraved with the race team identifier "OTHG AA/FA" in case if someone steals it, they'll know who they stole it from. A few weeks back, I picked up a medium length, 3/8" drive standard socket set. There's been times I've needed those and hadn't had them. Got plenty of longs and shorts, but never any mediums.
A Thexton distributor degree ring for the 216/235/261 chevy delco remy distributors. Popped up on ebay. Never saw one before then. Snaps onto the distributor and indexes the rotor to the cap so to speak.
Just bought a input shaft nut wrench for the muncie transmission fits the muncie m20,21,22 and our 3 speeds. Cost about $15 delivered. It is a thin spanner to fit on the skinny nut between the oil slinger and the front of the main bearing of the trans.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
I recently replaced an old particle board table top with some 2X4s. Then I wrapped the top with scrap steel I removed from a truck bed. It stays outside and is my go-to table for anything dirty or messy.
I also purchased an anvil. It's a Harbor Freight anvil that gets bad reviews because the steel is rather soft (as anvils go). You get what you pay for, but I only paid $20 and it will serve my needs quite well.
I bought a set of Mckaig-Hatch wrenches, Pliers, and ball peen hammer all for my 1950 3100 tool bag (re-pop) to keep in my truck. I still need the screwdriver & spark plug piece.
....I liked the 2 ft pull/breaker bar so much I bought another one this week with the "coupon". Thinking about also giving them to my girls....they all know how to change a flat.....and if needed, whop a guy upside the head.
Not such a bad idea Alvin, specially how these tire stores torque the lugs on to like 250 ft/lbs. I dont see how the majority of the people can get a tire off with an OEM wrench.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Still works OK - used it to pull the front clip.
