| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (JW51, Phak1),
92
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,081 Posts1,056,321 Members48,442 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2017 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2017 Posts: 4 | So I’ve got brake fluid leaking out of the back of the brake master cylinder. Also now that the brake fluid is low I can see some rust in the bottom of the reservoir.
Mine is power brakes with the flatter vac booster a single diaphragm I think. And one brake line off the master cyc. 4 wheel drum.
So I’ll need a new master cylinder. Should I replace the brake booster at the same time? Could the fluid have got back into the booster and caused damage?
Would it be an upgrade to go with a master cylinder that has two exit ports and do some plumbing to separate front and rear drums? It’s always made me kind of nervous that the whole show is running off one shared line.
Looks like Rock Auto has a 1 inch master cylinder with booster for a 1967 c2500 with two outlets. I think that might work.
But I'm glad i don't have any fresh paint on my fenderwells now :)
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 | Yes the dual reservoir M/C would be an upgrade. 66 was the last year of the single system. I believe along with the master cylinder you would need the proportional valve block.
ESum
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 | This setup will work for you : brake booster and MC mounted in engine bay There are other photos of my engine compartment on the site there if you want to see some other angles. -W p.s. this is a text write up of how the brake lines on my truck were routed, it may have no bearing on your set up : brake line routing | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 | " It’s always made me kind of nervous that the whole show is running off one shared line" that truck has lived it's life for 50 years with that setup. it worked fine for what it was designed for at it's and how vehicles were driven. It depends on what you want to do with the truck and how you are going to frive. if you are going to uprade the power and drive it in todays hurry up offensive style in heavy traffic then I would make sure to upgrade the system. ron | | | | | Joined: Feb 2017 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2017 Posts: 4 | Thanks Woogeroo! your pics confirmed what I was hoping.
This is the setup I'm going for. I ordered a loaded booster / master cylinder for a 1967 2500 from Rockauto today. it's the same listing as a 1969. Classic Industries has a proportioning valve for drum/drum I'll get.
I'm planing to replace the old lines with stainless tube while I'm working on it. Maybe even braided hoses if I come across some at a good price. I know I don't need them for this application but I think they look cool.
one question... does the smaller brake line run to the front or rear brakes on your truck? (the one forward after the valve, I think it looks smaller at least) I think the proportioning valve I'm looking at getting has a port for each front brake and one to split at the rear axle. but I'm not sure yet.
Thanks, Zach
| | |
| |
| |