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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,279 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 | Hi All,
So I haven't had much luck finding a 7.5' bed, at least one in decent condition for my '48 3600. I do like the thought of an all-wood bed, similar to the 'GMC Huckster' and I do have fenders that are passable for now. What I'm looking for now though, would be the Outside Dimensions of a regular 7.5' bed. Specifically the dimension between the rear fenders, where they bolt to the bedsides. I've never had a bed or fenders for that matter on this truck, so nothing to go by.
Also, what would a suitable lumber dimension be to scribe out the wheel 'hump' in the frame, but leave enough strength in the support and also not raise the floor height too much!
Thanks in advanced!
P.S. Yes, I have already received some great details from Rob, the owner of the GMC Huckster!
Last edited by Goach2; 01/15/2017 3:40 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,068 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,068 | Per the info from the GM heritage site, the 7.5' bed is the same width as the shorter bed, 50 inches inside measurement. Add to that the thickness of the metal, 1/16" per side and the dimension between the fenders would be 50-1/8". Probably not enough to make a difference if you just went with 50 inches.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 | Thanks Kevin, I didn't realize the bedsides were that thin.
The bed length is 87" on the inside, I guess anything around there would be pretty close.
Maybe the wood beam size for scribing over the frame hump is a good question for someone who has built a flatbed?
Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 | No takers yet, maybe a different thread? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 | So, I'm ready to start with the bed build, mostly because I need to mount the fenders to get it road worthy. One question I do have is what is the spacing between the back of the cab and the bed? I know my 3600 should have an 87" bed, but I'm curious as to where to start and end it. Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 709 | No takers on that one... I left around 5/8"-3/4" if anyone is interested. I've also scribed my lumber over the axle hump, here's a pic: https://goo.gl/photos/wfxEyC7z46JYLnePAOn the passenger side, the fuel filler neck for the 'under-bed' tank sits about an inch or so off the frame. I was trying to decide if I should cut a nice round hole to slip it through, or if I should do a inverted "U" down to the frame. The round hole would look the best, but I'm thinking that if I need to pull the bed off for any reason, a "U" would allow it to lift straight up. Any thoughts/suggestions? | | |
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