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#1192137 11/23/2016 10:43 PM
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New to the stovebolt world. Had lots of welcomes on the welcome center forums and now I am moving over here to gain some knowledge and gets some good advice. Just pulled the engine now I am taking it over to a machine shop for testing and machining. What avenue should I proceed down? Bore it over and how much? Just clean it up? Looking for opinions with reasons behind the opinion. Thanks everyone,
Steve.

52Steve #1192146 11/23/2016 11:34 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Steve,

What make, size, year engine?

tclederman #1192152 11/24/2016 12:07 AM
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Chevrolet 235 inline 6. according to block number it is a 1958-1962 engine.

52Steve #1192154 11/24/2016 12:19 AM
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'Bolter
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Never bore more then needed to get a straight cylinder. It's not a race engine, so don't try and make it one, use stock replacement parts. Also, no need for harden seats in the head, UNLESS your truck is a heavy duty model that will see extended full throttle heavy pulls.

If it doesn't have much cylinder wear, you could get away just a hone and reusing the stock pistons. Always replace piston rings.

As with anything, how much do you want to spend and what do you want out of it?


52Steve #1192155 11/24/2016 12:21 AM
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A good machine shop will measure all the critical clearances on the block, crank, head and cam.....then recommend the needed repair.

Generally if it needs a bore you go up until the bore is clean, straight and round.
Same with crank bearing surfaces.
Head work clean, pressure check, guides, valves and seat refinish or replacement if needed.

If your on a budget the shop can tell where and what you can get by with but that always come with some compromises.

Are they doing the reassemble or are you doing the build.


Last edited by showkey; 11/24/2016 12:22 AM.
Joe H #1192250 11/24/2016 4:24 PM
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Thanks Joe H for the input. I guess I needed to hear "it's not a race engine" because in some ways I was picturing a performance engine but trying to keep it classic. Where I do want out of the truck is to be able to drive long distances. Not an unlimited budget but enough to make it run strong. any more advice is greatly appreciated.

52Steve

showkey #1192252 11/24/2016 4:29 PM
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I have already talked to a machine shop, here in Dothan, that has come recommended by several friends of mine. The shop owner stated he would check out the block and heads and let me know what I got and we'll go from there. As far as reassembly, I have never been in the "bowels" of an engine, so I am wanting to reassemble this myself, with enough studying prior to, obviously. Keep up the questions and opinions please, as this is helping me narrow down exactly where I want to go.

52Steve

52Steve #1192277 11/24/2016 6:29 PM
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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There are literally dozens of little details involved in assembling an engine, and a lot of them can have disastrous consequences if they're done incorrectly. I'd strongly advise enlisting the help of an experienced engine builder as at least a mentor as you start installing parts. I built my first "unassisted" engine in 1962, but I had already built up several of them under Dad's supervision by then. There have been several hundred engine jobs since then, plus 30-something years of teaching high school and trade school students!
Jerry


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52Steve #1192283 11/24/2016 7:05 PM
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On what Jerry said. I was watching "Graveyard Cars" last night. They torn down a newly rebuilt 383 c.i. for inspection. They found a cupped washer on the end of the crank which was turned around backward. As I understood it, it was to put some oil on the timing chain. Anyway, it was chewed up and the metal particals had eaten all the moving parts of the engine, crank included.
Most of us want to do it ourselves, but some things should be left to more experienced hands.


Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
52Steve #1192294 11/24/2016 8:30 PM
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You tube is all I need, right? j/k, I did plan on having a friend of mine feed me his knowledge since I've never done it before. But, I want to be the one doing the work, so I can learn, and later be able to say, I did it. But, my thought process is this... where I don't know how to do something and put effort in to trying is where I gain my experience. If I fail, I fail but I learned and grew. So engine rebuiling advice is greatly welcomed here!

52Steve #1192302 11/24/2016 9:33 PM
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Bolter
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Steve, cleanliness and plenty of assembly lube is half the battle. Quality torque wrench and sockets that fit properly. Read the engine assembly manual and go slow. You will be ok.


Martin
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52Steve #1192314 11/24/2016 9:57 PM
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Steve, here is a link to an article that Deve wrote that you might find helpful.

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235

Matt

52Steve #1192331 11/25/2016 12:08 AM
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I will definitely go slow. I do need to purchase the manual though. Love the link Maybellene! lot's of good info. Thanks for the help so far.

52Steve

52Steve #1192337 11/25/2016 1:17 AM
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Steve, here is a link to the engine section of the 1960 shop manual.

http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.com/1960%20235-261%20Engine%20Manual.htm

Matt

52Steve #1192372 11/25/2016 6:05 AM
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If you are brand new to the internals as you have mentioned, maybe you can see if your machine shop will allow you to observe the assembly to the short block stage so you can see how it is done. Then you can install the head, rocker arm assembly, water pump, etc, and still say that you put this engine together.
The rebuild kit and machine work alone can run between $2,000 and $3,000 for this engine. Assembly by them is more.
As mentioned by others, the slightest misstep by you will create a very expensive boat anchor.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Steve #1192391 11/25/2016 2:38 PM
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'Bolter
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I think it is very satisfying to rebuild your own motor and yes, it is better with an experienced friend to help you. Next time you do this, I would suggest taking it apart first. The wear markings and the condition of all the parts will tell you a story of how it has been used and what needs to be done.


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52Steve #1192705 11/27/2016 9:00 PM
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First motor I fixed was a 1950 Oldsmobile. V8 TurboHydromatic. Came home and parked in a cloud of smoke. Got a JC Whitney catologe and Dads tools. One sleeved cylinder later, I had friends in a machine shop. Found the Motors Manuals in the local garage and leaned what a Torque wrench was. Knew the guys at the tool center at Sears,and just managed to keep Dad from killing me. Education is not cheap. Best way to learn? If you want to put it together, take it apart. Camera, note book, manuals, and skilled mentor. It can be fun. It can be interesting. It will cost more than you think. Expand the Beer budget. Expand the time line, and pay attention. Enjoy!


Steve H

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