Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (klhansen, Tronman, Gray_Ghost, jay d, TooMany2count, Wally / Montana, 1 invisible),
120
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,051 Posts1,055,711 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | New to the stovebolt world. Had lots of welcomes on the welcome center forums and now I am moving over here to gain some knowledge and gets some good advice. Just pulled the engine now I am taking it over to a machine shop for testing and machining. What avenue should I proceed down? Bore it over and how much? Just clean it up? Looking for opinions with reasons behind the opinion. Thanks everyone, Steve. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Steve,
What make, size, year engine?
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | Chevrolet 235 inline 6. according to block number it is a 1958-1962 engine. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 | Never bore more then needed to get a straight cylinder. It's not a race engine, so don't try and make it one, use stock replacement parts. Also, no need for harden seats in the head, UNLESS your truck is a heavy duty model that will see extended full throttle heavy pulls.
If it doesn't have much cylinder wear, you could get away just a hone and reusing the stock pistons. Always replace piston rings.
As with anything, how much do you want to spend and what do you want out of it?
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 | A good machine shop will measure all the critical clearances on the block, crank, head and cam.....then recommend the needed repair.
Generally if it needs a bore you go up until the bore is clean, straight and round. Same with crank bearing surfaces. Head work clean, pressure check, guides, valves and seat refinish or replacement if needed.
If your on a budget the shop can tell where and what you can get by with but that always come with some compromises.
Are they doing the reassemble or are you doing the build.
Last edited by showkey; 11/24/2016 12:22 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | Thanks Joe H for the input. I guess I needed to hear "it's not a race engine" because in some ways I was picturing a performance engine but trying to keep it classic. Where I do want out of the truck is to be able to drive long distances. Not an unlimited budget but enough to make it run strong. any more advice is greatly appreciated.
52Steve | | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | I have already talked to a machine shop, here in Dothan, that has come recommended by several friends of mine. The shop owner stated he would check out the block and heads and let me know what I got and we'll go from there. As far as reassembly, I have never been in the "bowels" of an engine, so I am wanting to reassemble this myself, with enough studying prior to, obviously. Keep up the questions and opinions please, as this is helping me narrow down exactly where I want to go.
52Steve | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 | There are literally dozens of little details involved in assembling an engine, and a lot of them can have disastrous consequences if they're done incorrectly. I'd strongly advise enlisting the help of an experienced engine builder as at least a mentor as you start installing parts. I built my first "unassisted" engine in 1962, but I had already built up several of them under Dad's supervision by then. There have been several hundred engine jobs since then, plus 30-something years of teaching high school and trade school students! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | On what Jerry said. I was watching "Graveyard Cars" last night. They torn down a newly rebuilt 383 c.i. for inspection. They found a cupped washer on the end of the crank which was turned around backward. As I understood it, it was to put some oil on the timing chain. Anyway, it was chewed up and the metal particals had eaten all the moving parts of the engine, crank included. Most of us want to do it ourselves, but some things should be left to more experienced hands.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | You tube is all I need, right? j/k, I did plan on having a friend of mine feed me his knowledge since I've never done it before. But, I want to be the one doing the work, so I can learn, and later be able to say, I did it. But, my thought process is this... where I don't know how to do something and put effort in to trying is where I gain my experience. If I fail, I fail but I learned and grew. So engine rebuiling advice is greatly welcomed here! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Steve, cleanliness and plenty of assembly lube is half the battle. Quality torque wrench and sockets that fit properly. Read the engine assembly manual and go slow. You will be ok.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 13 | I will definitely go slow. I do need to purchase the manual though. Love the link Maybellene! lot's of good info. Thanks for the help so far.
52Steve | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | If you are brand new to the internals as you have mentioned, maybe you can see if your machine shop will allow you to observe the assembly to the short block stage so you can see how it is done. Then you can install the head, rocker arm assembly, water pump, etc, and still say that you put this engine together. The rebuild kit and machine work alone can run between $2,000 and $3,000 for this engine. Assembly by them is more. As mentioned by others, the slightest misstep by you will create a very expensive boat anchor. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I think it is very satisfying to rebuild your own motor and yes, it is better with an experienced friend to help you. Next time you do this, I would suggest taking it apart first. The wear markings and the condition of all the parts will tell you a story of how it has been used and what needs to be done. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | First motor I fixed was a 1950 Oldsmobile. V8 TurboHydromatic. Came home and parked in a cloud of smoke. Got a JC Whitney catologe and Dads tools. One sleeved cylinder later, I had friends in a machine shop. Found the Motors Manuals in the local garage and leaned what a Torque wrench was. Knew the guys at the tool center at Sears,and just managed to keep Dad from killing me. Education is not cheap. Best way to learn? If you want to put it together, take it apart. Camera, note book, manuals, and skilled mentor. It can be fun. It can be interesting. It will cost more than you think. Expand the Beer budget. Expand the time line, and pay attention. Enjoy!
Steve H
| | |
| |