The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine stand

Will the 235 mount on a engine stand without any issues. The 4 bolts at the back of the engine look a little close together for the engine to hang with the weight and length of these motors.

no, I don't recall exactly the issues, but it did eventually fit, but it was kind of hokey. It was kind of tilted a little, but it did work, just kind of weird.

KEVINSKI,

Post a link to a photo of your engine stands. They have different style/size arms and bolts.

I was able to mount a 235 and 261 with no issues, after remove/reversing the fingers. 2000 lb Harbor Freight engine stand w/261 attached

The engine was easy to roll inside and outside the garage and the engine could be easily rotated.

I would not try this with a smaller capacity engine stand.

I mounted my 216 on my stand which has four wheels and two horizontal legs. It would be the same as the 235. I used Tim's (tclederman) idea to mount it. At the back of the block I used the four holes. The top arms of the stand can not be positioned for the holes in the block. So instead I used the top arms as spacers and put the top bolts directly through to the block. I used the bottom arms as they are. The one problem that I had was that the bottom arms were longer and the bolts on the stand would contact the rotary fixture. When I do this again this winter I will use the shorter arms on the bottom. Tim had a great photo in one of his posts and I haven't been able to find it.

As far as being balanced, it is workable this way. removing the head changes the center of gravity and then removing the crankshaft also changes it. I use a breaker bar inserted as the turning handle for leverage.

Don't try it with a three legged stand!

Joe's advice should not be ignored for a 216/235/261 straight-six, long block engine.

do not use this style stand
this style stand is not much better
this might be a little better, but I would not use it (without taking great care)
this one is OK
this one has 6 wheels if in rolls around easily, it might be better

I guess mine has six wheels because I can fold the arms up and it rolls on four wheels. The only slight problem I have is that the wheels don't quite fit inside the rails of my engine lift. I just work around that problem.

Thanks for the input and the pictures my stand is like tcledermans and I was concerned as the back of the engine has the bolts close together and the motor is long I think I am going ton store the motor on two car dollies (8) wheels and 2 inches from the floor.when I am ready to work on this I will rig up a support for the front of the motor as well.

Another way to get a safe mount is to bolt a piece of 1/2" X 2" flat bar about 16" long to the block using the top bellhousing mounting holes, and spacing the lower engine stand arms out 1/2" with a stack of flat washers. It allows some better positioning of the arms to achieve a more neutral balance point when the engine is rotated for access to the crankshaft and connecting rods. Those things get really top-heavy, especially with the cylinder head installed!
Jerry

Another good idea thanks

I mounted mine on the HF 3 leg stand. No issues at all. Torqued all the bolts, rotated it, installed the water pump adapter... did everything with absolutely no issues.

The block total it less than 400lbs (I scrapped a 270 and it weighed in at just over 400).

I used a gantry crane to lift, then installed the back plate, then slipped it into the stand. Tool about 30 minutes.

The only thing I didn't like about the 3 leg stand is that you have to rig up a drip pan, cause the leg is in the way.

If you only have one motor to work on, the 3 leg version is fine.

In fact, here's what it looks like on this 'dangerous child killer device' (as some ppl would make you think it is)

https://www.tm9-801.com/forums/download/file.php?id=1095

Typical! Forrest Gump's Mama would be proud!
Jerry

Looks to me like a four wheel (4 legs, with front wheels at two short legs/ends on a front stabilizing crossbar).

That's the middle one in my links, above.

Works fine on level smooth-surfaced floors. Much better than the first two links above it. But, I'd not use it moving an engine out to a slightly sloping rough tarmac driveway.

The three-wheel ones are the "killers" with stovebolt 6 engines. They are about $10 less expensive than the one you have - it would be silly to save that $10.

That photo is not of the 3 legged 3 caster engine (shaped like a T) stand. Yours has 4 casters (like an uneven H) which makes it more stable.

In the future please compare apples to apples. Jeffrey

I have one like pfarbers, took that front cross bar off and replaced it with a piece that I had, same dimensions just longer so it would have more stability.

Joe