The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Base timing etc?

OK, so I've got the motor back in and getting it all 'set up'. It's a 70's 292, original 1952 dizzy with no vacuum advance, not sure of age single barrel Rochester B carb. What kind of mixture, idle and timing should I set it to? It seems to idle about 650, runs great at idle, but stumbles and stutters over 3200.
Also what would be a redline value? Not that I'd take her there, but to know.

Mixture, and timing are going to be from the feel of how it drives and runs down the road. With mismatched parts, factory spec's will not apply. You will have to test drive and change, test drive and change, etc..... till it feels about right.


You really should have vacuum advance hooked up, the engine will run cleaner and fuel milage will increase.

The upper rpm range will be around 4800 or so. I suspect the rough running over 3200 is a lean condition along with timing problems.

Are you sure that setup will work? The 1952 distributor would be for a 216, and I'm fairly sure the drive gears and the oil pump drive don't match up. I know a 230/250/292 distributor will not work right in a 216 or a 235.
Jerry

will not interchange.

Distributor#1112369 according to parts guy: 1952 248/270. Which for my big bolt woulda been the base and optional motors. No idea which it was. I got it in running (poorly) condition with the 70's 292 with that distributor. Sorry but it is working, just not yet timed great. Thus my original questions, anybody?

Thanks JoeH, thats kinda what I expected. Oh and there is no vacuum advance on it at all to hook up. Just the internal mechanical.

Im trying to keep it as 'original' as it was at my purchase and just repairing or replacing in kind.

Try checking the points gap. I remember having an engine that seemed to run well but at about 3,000 rpm it stumbled horribly. Gapped the points properly and all was good.

Ah great suggestion. However, spec for that is 18 thou if I remember, at that it runs horribly, backfires, sputtering. At about 30 thou runs much better. And that's where it is right now. Now will going spec on points be better as timing gets closer too??? I know current timing is way advanced, not sure how much.

Points are off far enough to cause the problem you describe.

0.030 seems way too wide for points gap.

I would set the points to specs and check the dwell to make sure it's right. Once that's done, set the timing. Google supplied tune up specs:

Tune Up Specs

Final timing might have to be done after driving test; if it pings under load, retard the timing. On my 1980 pickup, I found I could run it with a few extra degrees of advance for (hopefully) improved fuel economy. Worked fine during normal use but when there was a heavy camper in the back, there would be pinging and the timing had be set back.