The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Windshield rubber on '51 3100, 2 questions

I put a new rear window seal in my '51 the other day, and I'm getting ready to replace the windshield rubber and glass next. Yesterday, I went ahead and put the glass in the new seal from Steele Rubber, and I'm having one hell of a time getting the "pull string" into the groove for the pinch seal. I spent about 20 minutes and got about 8" last night. I bought the string tool from LMC, which has a handle and curved tube for the string to run through. I started out trying to do it 'dry', then applied a little oil on the chrome tube and tried it that way. (The string will move through the tube, so I inserted the tube into the groove and pulled it while leaving the string in place). Anyway, I'm just not getting it, so I guess there's a trick to it, but what is it?? I've watched youtube videos, read the directions that Steele sent with the seal, and searched this forum, but I can't seem to find anything that says it's a hard job or that anyone else has had as much trouble as I'm having. Can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong? (or what I should be doing to make it easier?) This just doesn't look like it should take more than a couple of minutes, to me!!

Question 2- When I got the two glass panels into the rubber, I noticed that there was one larger 'hole' in the center post section that is not centered. I didn't notice it when I laid it out on the table, and I'm assuming it may be for the rear view mirror nut, but Steele's directions doesn't mention it, and I can't find anything about it in any posts. Can someone tell me if it's supposed to go to the top or toward the bottom of the install? I don't want to get it put in then find out I did it wrong. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/412800891.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/412800890.jpg

Thanks for any and all replies on this. Lee

My glass guy used a lid to like a glue bottle or caulk or the like. You know the type like a long narrow funnel. The end was cut off enough that the rope can move freely through it. He uses spray silicone or foam glass cleaner as a lubricant be generous. He just slides it along the groove leaving the rope in the rubber. It happens fast.

The "large hole" goes at the top.
I am currently feeling your pain with my '49. Mine has the stainless steel trim just to make it more "fun".
We didn't have an issue with getting the string in the groove.
We did have an issue with keeping the stainless trim to stay locked into the groove while man-handling the glass into final position. Now it all needs to come back out. Just as well though, as I forgot to run a bead of sealant in front of the pinch weld before installing the windshield assembly.
I am now seriously considering surrendering the work to the glass shop down the street.

Hmm. I didn't have that much of a problem. I just reinstalled my windshield a couple of weeks ago. One side I used 1/4" rope, the other side I used #12 automotive wire. I didn't slide in the rope, I just peeled back the rubber flap a little and tucked it in. If there was too much slack, I just pulled it tight at each corner. I laid the assembly up where it goes and started pulling from the top part, working from side to side. Lots of glass cleaner "lube". Working both the rope and, using a radiator hose hook tool, worked the flap over the pinch weld. Every once-in-a-while giving the outside of the assembly a little nudge.

...I hope you have an extra set of hands doing this. They help a lot. I didn't have much trouble with the rope but as Carl52 mentioned I did have a booger of time with the stainless trim.

An old trick of the trade,it's what I use,i'd be wary of silicon spray though,apart from the implications of later paint problems it can get to the point it is almost too slick and will fight you.
I use an alcohol based glass cleaner concentrate that I mix with plain old water.

Lee,there's no trick i'm afraid,the rubber is formed by extrusion and consequently the pinchweld groove can be tight,but ironically that's what you want.
Too loose and it opens up the risk of leaks etc.

Try a mild solution of dish soap sprayed around the groove and it should help stop the tool dragging on the new rubber,not too much soap though as it will get too slick.
I actually use a nozzle from a tube of caulk like mentioned in Ssrjims post above.

I do this for a living and even I get a fight with new rubbers now and again,all I can suggest is to persevere,it will go eventually.

Thanks, everybody! Great suggestions. I'm getting back over there this week (before the rain starts again) to get this in there. Lee

Good luck brother! I think your biggest problem has to do with your name. I know for a fact that "Murphy" follows "Lees" around 24/7....