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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 10
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 10
I have a 1934 Chevy truck with a good body and frame, nothing else. Want to make a low budget rat rod type build
Option 1
Find a 60s or 70s doner car. Use the 34 frame and mount the donor car engine, Tranny and rear end on the frame I have. Buy a mustang 2 front end.
Option 2
Buy a 60s or 70s doner car, use the doner frame and motor, tranny and rear and front end. Mount the cab and bed on the donor frame. This will be cheaper and easier. But, is it the right way to go
Thanks, I have no clue on what way to go

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
If the body and frame are in good condition I'd like to see it remain as those vehicles are hard to come by these days. Find a comparable motor/tranny and go for it.

...depending on your personal use on the highways of today I'd probably go option 2. Also depends on mechanical skills and wallet!

In the end its yours and we will abide by your decision and help all we can!


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Joined: Apr 2005
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Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Dezzell, this discussion belongs in the Hi-Po forum. That's where all us street rod guys hang out. Maybe our Moderator will shuffle this over there for you.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,878
The 34 running gear will be scarce and expensive to acquire. By stepping up just a few years, into the late 40 or early 50's, you can have an almost-correct looking inline six for power, and much more available running gear that wouldn't require the butcher job a really late model V8 would need for installation. A 216 or even a mid-1950's 235 would closely resemble the original engine. Depending on whether you want to stay with an enclosed driveline, the options would be pre-1954 for a trans and rear end, or 1955-up for an open driveline. A post-1950 front axle will have Bendix brakes, another advantage over the Huck brakes used prior to that date. Front axle width might be a concern, so a 1940's vintage axle with upgraded brakes might be needed.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Aug 2016
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New Guy
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 10
Photo of my 34 truck

My truck

Last edited by Dezzell; 08/26/2016 9:02 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
That's a good start! Should be a fun build.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
Your best bet is going to be using your stock frame, boxing the frame and upgrading the suspension. There are a lot of choices out there for doing this. The problem with TRYING to put an old body on a newer frame is that NOTHING fits. It also will not look right when finished including a s10 swap.


Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

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