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| | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 | I have read the article on replacing the old ball stud with modern ends.
My question is, is the hole where the ball stud goes tapered?? As i assume the modern ends are tapered, just wondereing if the arm will need reaming to match the new end?
Thanks | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | This site covers over 50 years of truck production. They are not all built the same way. It's best to include what truck model you are asking about. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 | Good point, sorry!!
1949 1/2 ton. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Jonnyenglish, click the Links at the top of the page. I think there is a tech tip on doing just what your talking about.
...Not sure if your 49 is like my 52 but I changed to the modern tie rod ends and did not have to ream or drill. The new ones work good. Are you staying stock front end? on some applications I've heard the newer tie rod ends may rub the tie a little. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 | Jonnyenglish, click the Links at the top of the page. I think there is a tech tip on doing just what your talking about.
...Not sure if your 49 is like my 52 but I changed to the modern tie rod ends and did not have to ream or drill. The new ones work good. Are you staying stock front end? on some applications I've heard the newer tie rod ends may rub the tie a little. Thanks for your reply. The only alteration to the fron end is slightly lower springs. Glad yours work well. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 | The replacements for trucks up to '59 are a drop in, bolt on tie-rod. The hole in the steering arms are fairly straight with a bevel on each end. The newer ends have a straight shaft and flange at the top that will fit right in. Do not drill out the arms, the holes are 1/2" or slightly less in diameter, so be careful not to drill off center. It's best to drill down the center of the original ball shaft to relief some pressure, then press the old balls out. This means removing the steering arms. There is no real good way of doing this on the truck.
Joe
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 362 | ...
Are you staying stock front end? on some applications I've heard the newer tie rod ends may rub the tie a little. Mine were done by Nostalgia Sid's when I was having my axle dropped. With a 3" drop axle and stock springs, the new ends rubbed in the inside of one front tire. I changed from a 235 width tire to a 215 width tire, and that made enough room. I don't know if it was the fresh lubrication, or the new style ends, [EDIT: or the narrower front tires] but my truck (1950 3100) is easier to steer at low/no speed than it was before.
Last edited by EchoBravoSierra; 08/23/2016 6:58 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 34 | Good information, thankyou all.
Last edited by jonnyenglish; 08/23/2016 5:50 PM.
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