The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 1963 Metal Fuel Lines

Hello everyone,
I'm rebuilding the fuel delivery system on my '63 C-10. The metal fuel line running from the tank to the fuel pump is pretty badly rusted so i'm going to replace it, but I cannot seem to find one anywhere. Does anyone know place to buy this part?

Thanks!

inlinetube.com Part Number CTF6401 or CTF6402 $60
You can buy lengths of tubing with flare fittings on them already and bend them and save some money. The type sold at O'Reilly's and elsewhere. If you don't have a bender, they will loan you one. If you mess up enough you could spend the same as the inline tube parts.

My preference is to buy a coil of gas line. Unroll it on the floor pressing down with your foot as you unroll it to make it straight, unless you have one of the gizmo's to make it straight....and then bend it to match your original gas line.
Like Bart mentioned, you can find lengths to piece together, which saves double flaring, but for me personally I like the one piece
Note: if you cut your own length be sure to put the fittings on the end before flaring them!

Thanks for the part numbers and advice. My fuel line isn't double flared (Must not be the original fuel line, perhaps because of the 1971 engine in my truck). It's got a bulge at each end so that a rubber hose can attach with a pipe clamp. I've never seen a tool for doing that. I can't tell what the inline tube line looks like because there isn't a picture of it, but I'm guessing its double flared, so what should I do?

If your line is stainless, it's single. If it's Aluminum or steel it should be double. If it's euro style, it's bubble flare.
The inline tube and other vendor tubes are available in SS or "OEM". Either should work with whatever you are mating with.
The flare on the inlinetube.com will be according to material probably. Call or email them.
You can use any style flare with rubber hose, The flare acts like a barb. You are looking at a flare (bubble, single or double) without the nut.
These styles go by many names. SAE, ISO, American, Japanese, European, DIN, AN/JIC, JIS....so make sure you read the label. You want AMERICAN SAE 45 deg with a SAE thread callout. SS is not necessary, so get O'Reilly's steel SAE or inlinetube OEM. You don't want any MM threads. Be careful, some Metric threads seem like they fit. If your line is non magnetic it is either SS or AL. If you can scrape a burr off it with a knife, it's AL. But you should be able to tell by just looking, bending. Don't overthink it too much, just get new tube and put it on with some rubber hose here and there. Tubing doesn't care what truck it's in or what motor it goes to.

that piece of tubinis not all that long. most auto parts jobbers have ready made steel lines. just take the old one off and go to the parts store and match one up, it is always easier to get one a little longer than shorter. tubing is easy to bend as long as you bend it over something. if you try doing it freehand you usually end up with a kink.
if you order one from somewhere you end up paying twice ; once for the item and once for the freight
ron