The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What's 235 head worth?

In my local paper, there is an ad that reads, "235 head all reconditioned with hardened seats" I do not know what cast numbers it is yet. Nor do I know if there are new springs, valves, etc. I'm assuming original parts with hardened seats and a valve job. Anyone have an idea what dollar range I should offer for it if I decide I want it? It was told it was done by the local reputable experienced engine builder. Thanks.

Find out the year of the head. There were two bolt-patterns for 235 heads.

Ask to see the invoice for the work on the head. See what work was done.

Check the invoice to see if the head was magnafluxed for cracks.

We'll, the head casting number is the same as my other two heads are, 3836848. It also had GM21 CON9 and J 12 1 on it, according to the seller. He wasn't able to tell me any details other than it was all rebuilt and had hardened valve seats. He's thinks he has the receipt but has to look for it. So given that somewhat vague info, what range should I be willing to pay for it?

1961 235 head

$150 would be a very good deal without parts/valves/etc - if it is guaranteed to have no cracks.

If it is an assembled all-parts reconditioned head, up to double that amount - if it is guaranteed to have no cracks.

Ok thanks Tim. Where can I find a place to decipher the various code stampings and casting numbers? There used to be a discussion pinned to the top of this engine discussion section that was labeled GM engine identification, or something like that, but I can no longer find it.

3836848 - 1956-1962

GM21 = ? (where on the head)

CON9 = conveyor #9

J 12 1 - date casting code
J = month = 10 = October
12 = day = 12th
1 = year = 1961

http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/casting-code-photos/codes-ser-nums.html

Not sure where GM21 is on the head, I haven't seen the head yet. All the info I know is what I was told over the phone by the seller. Thanks for the help Tim.

It has hardened seats, or "he was told" it has hardened seats?
Inclusion of that phrase is a major tell.

The seller said it has hardened seats.

Considering what effect seat inserts have on the price, you should see them before you buy it. If not convenient for you to travel, a really close color photo will show a faint line concentric to the seat ID, perhaps with a small color change.

It is in my hometown. I plan on going to see this head in a day or three. I believe him that it has hardened seats, I have no reason not to. It was rebuilt by a local experienced engine builder, although some think hardened seats are over-rated if your not putting a heavy load on the engine. The question I have are new or original springs? New or original valves? Magnafluxed or not? I was mainly curious on what price range I should be willing to spend on it. The guy said he was charged over $400 from the engine shop, was selling for $350.

For that kind of money I'd expect all new valves/springs! If an experienced engine builder built it I'd expect nothing less than the best for over 400 bucks. If you don't think you can judge what has been done take a friend with you who can and you should be able to tell if its new valves and springs...and experienced engine builders would/should know to magnaflux before dropping any more money into it. It all boils down to what you see and who you trust.

I called the engine builder today and talked to him (older gentleman, has been doing engines for forty plus years, good reputation around town, has been accused of being slow to finish jobs) He recalls doing some work for the seller, although not that particular piece. Said he always magnafluxes heads before investing work into them. He installs herdened seats in cases like this (older heads/newer fuels). Clips head if needed, grinds valves and sets them at proper depth in seat, and shims springs at proper height/preload. I asked if he would have installed new valves and springs, and he asked if I planned on running the head in NASCAR. It did give me a chuckle. So it appears things should be in good order with this head, although more than likely original valves and springs. Seller wants $350 for it. Going to look at it this afternoon. Hmmmmmm

I would think the market would be somewhat limited so if it is what you want offer $275 and see what happens.

I agree with with Martin - show him cash-in-hand.

Well I went and looked at the head. Everything looked about as claimed. Looked like it was re surfaced, and appeared to have new exhaust valves. Only issue was there were no rockers or rocker shafts, and no shaft pedastal supports. I'm not sure if the shaft supports are specific to each head, kind of like main caps are specific to blocks, or if any 235 pedastal support, shaft, and rocker assembly will work. Either way, I decided to walk away from it for now. I didn't low ball the guy, and he didn't offer a cheaper price. I guess I'll just let it rest for now, I'm sure his door won't get beat down by people looking to buy it. He did come off as a bit stubborn tho by saying he will just let it sit until someone shows up with the cash.

I hate to spend other people's money, but that's a fair price considering how difficult it may be just to find an 848 head.
You might save $75 now, and have to pay $600 next year.
Also: if you meet his price, you have made a good impression on someone who may be valuable as the project goes forward.

I don't mind peoples opinions, that's why I'm here, for opinions. My major hang up is the lack of rocker assembly. I would have figured the head would have been complete for the price. Will an assembly from a similar head work?

Rocker assemblies and heads are different items. Yes, rockers from one engine will work on the next.

Most machine shops would not include rocker parts with an "exchange" head. It sounds like his asking price is just a little on the high side of normal, but not to the point of being outrageous. I'm not hung up on "all new" where valves are concerned, as long as there's enough "margin" at the edge to prevent the valve from overheating and burning. Intakes need at least 1/16" from the top of the valve to the beginning of the ground surface, and exhausts should be a little thicker, maybe 3/32" or so, minimum. Stay FAR away from a valve with an edge that is better suited for a shaving razor!
Jerry

Rockers will work but must be matched with the year of engine: seen here on pre68's blog...

ahhh yes, that's right Cosmo. lots of good info on dave's blog.