The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rust paints

I know this topic has probably been discussed previously but I can't find any of the threads. I am getting ready to paint the frame of my 53 fivewindow. I am looking at POR15 and Rust Bullet. I have seen the results of POR15 on a frame and it looked good. I have not seen or talked to anyone directly that has used Rust Bullet.

Has any one used one of these products or used both of them for a comparison?

Look forward to hearing what you all have to say!

Thank you,

Dan Dilts
Colorado

I prefer Zero Rust.

I used zero rust as well. Good for stuff not in the sun and in the 2 years its been on my rig and always in the weather there has been no rust.

So Zero Rust removes and prevents rust on all exterior parts?

Zero Rust nor Por "remove rust", they cover it up. You will see the word "Encapsulate", which means to wrap around, or cover.

P-O-R in fact stands for "Paint Over Rust".

Are they "good", yeah they are good for somethings. But if you want something real nice, you REMOVE the rust via sandblasting, dipping, SOMETHING, but you do not paint over it.

Sand blast, wash etch prime, epoxy prime, then top coat with an SS urethane. This is a "wet on wet" system with no sanding between coats or products.

More on this at these links... POR Problems

How to REALLY remove rust..... This is by a REAL master metal man, no kidding around here.

Hope this helps,

Brian

Thanks Brian, it does. I just found a bad rust problem on my right door(really bad)which i had noticed before and i was hoping to find some to stop it in its tracks or something.

I recently used Rust Bullet around the roof drip rail on my '65. The rail is a very poor design where water easily accumulates and sits.
I wanted something that would really adhere and provide a strong barrier. After taking it down to bare metal, I applied the R.B. It definitely has good adhesion. I dripped some on my vent window and it's still there. Got a bit on my hands and took a while to come off.
I applied it with a brush in the drip rail and ended up with some air bubbles in some areas that I had to go back and fix. I think spraying this product would be better and help to eliminate that sort of thing.
Only time will tell if it was worth the money and that it actually provides a good barrier.
Overall I was satisfied with the product during application.
-David

yeah, i got the same problem with my '66 and the spot i mentioned before. so I guess I'll give the products a try in hope of bettering the problems.

Thanks Martinsr,

I plan to wire brush or sand out any loose or flaking rust off of the frame before I paint it (there isn't very much at all). I am not building a show truck and therefore I just want a nice looking frame. I don't want to sandblast the entire thing, or dip, and I don't want to spend the money it would take to do that and then have it painted. Boy, if I did all that I would hate to drive it, and Drive It I will!

I too live in Colorado just like the thread link you posted, so the mag cloride as a de-icer on the roads could be a problem for me as well.

Thanks for the info, I will take that into consideration when I decide on the frame paint.

Buy the way the GOOD GUYS car show here in Colorado Springs was fantastic this last weekend. A lot of motivation to get my truck done.

Thanks,

Dan