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| | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 | Need to inspect my front brake shoes and wheel cylinders, but it's been so long since I replaced them that I forgot how to remove the front drums. I think I have to remove the castle nut on the end of the wheel bearing/spindle. Anyone know for sure? Hate to do that if I don't have to. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 | You are correct. The hub and drum are removed together. Be sure to properly adjust the bearings when you reassemble.
Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 | Fred,
I don't know if it's worth noting, but I replaced the ball bearings with roller bearings about 5 years ago. By adjust do you mean grease and tighten to appropriate torque settings or is there something else?
Thanks,
Mike | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 310 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 310 | From what I know, there really isn't a torque setting for the castellated nut that holds the bearings snugly in place. I just redid front brakes and repacked wheel bearings on my '46 1/2 ton. Clean the inner and outer bearings, inspect them for any wear or damage, inspect the races for damage, pack the bearings with grease, reassemble, tighten the castellated nut down by hand first and spin the wheel. I then use an adjustable wrench and snug it up just a touch - don't want it too tight - then insert the cotter pin. This is for the factory ball bearing setup, but I imagine yours would be the same with roller bearings. I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong. 
Last edited by David Bush; 07/28/2016 4:11 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 | I realize that yours is a '37, but the '48-'51 Truck Shop Manual says to torque to 33 ft lbs, then back off 1/6 of a turn until the cotter pin will go through one of the two holes in the spindle. I don't have any idea if that would be what is called for for a '37.
The bottom line is, you don't want any drag, but you don't want any end play either.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I have a 37 shop manual but you'll have to shoot me a PM tomorrow so I don't forget to look..... just in case their is a tip in the book that is worth knowing. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 | Thanks Carl. I think I'll call fillingstation.com (where I bought the roller bearings) and ask them if they can tell me. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 97 | For everyone's info, I called fillingstation.com (where I bought the bearings about 5 years ago) but they said the bearings don't come with any torque setting instructions. However, on their website there's a tech article about upgrading to roller bearings and it recommended the following: "torque to 12 foot pounds while turning the hub front and back to seat the bearing. Back off the nut slightly (one flat or 1/6 turn) to align the cotter pin. There should be .001" to .003" of end play when properly adjusted." Entire article at https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/tapered.htm | | |
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