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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 48
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 48
Sorry, either my search skills are horrible or I just couldn't find what I exactly needed...

Background: 1951 Chevy 3100. Truck sat too long=no brakes. Rebuilt master cylinder (pretty sure correctly). Adjusted push rod to proper 13/16" toe board clearance. New wheel cylinders on both fronts as well as new spring kits as I had found a broken spring. I replaced the rear wheel cylinders a few years back. Went to bleed the system and couldn't get pedal, but I did get backwash (?) and some splatter out the top of the m/c.

A search here indicated I should adjust the shoes first. I went and bought a brake spoon to give it a whirl and adjust the shoes out. Maybe I'm just too old and stupid, but I can't get the adjusters to move either way. I know they're not frozen since I just checked them when I put the whole shebang back together yesterday. Do I somehow have to lift up the spring that goes over the adjuster so I can get it to turn? And... which direction do I turn the adjuster star to adjust the shoes out?

Totally basic, I know, and I know I'm going to feel even dumber once I find out. Thanks...

Joined: Jun 2004
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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If the adjuster screws are not stuck you should be able to adjust them. The screw should turn inside the spindle & the end should pivit on the other side of the screw. The only time you have to release a lever is with self adjusting brakes which did not come on that model. You move the spoon up on the outside forcing down on the inside of the backing plate. Its possible you have it backed up all the way & need a good push to get it started. I'm thinking the end of the screw that goes in the shoe is froze to the screw. Put the end in a vise & turn the star wheel with a pliers. Some rust breaker will help & if its really stuck you may need to heat it with a torch.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Turn all adjusters clockwise to adjust shoes out. This is clockwise when looking at each end of the brake cylinder. This means the adjustment wheel turns up at the end of each brake cylinder toward the front of the truck and down at the back.
I prefer to use a large flat screwdriver for the adjustment. Lift the truck so you have room to work, and use a good light so you can see the notched wheel. You do not have to remove the spring lock. Use care, it is possible to destroy the notched wheel.
Expand the shoes (using the adjuster on both ends of each cylinder) until the tire can no longer be turned, then back off the adjuster about 4-6 clicks and the tire very slightly drags when turned.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the replies. I'll try again in the morning and let you know what I find out...I learned this stuff my first year in auto shop for cryin' out loud...

I could swear everything was moving like it should when I put everything together yesterday, but, maybe in my haste I blew past the adjusters...

Joined: Mar 2002
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'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
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Sometimes I find the brake spoon pretty useless. In those cases I use a large dull slot screw driver.


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Renaissance Man
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The Chinese junk brake spoons are useless. You need to find some old ones or buy one from the evil Snap-on guy (be careful, they are sneaky and you will be carrying home a tool box as big as a refrigerator).
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Wrench Fetcher
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Update: OK, so I have to own up to something. When putting the left side back together, I thought I had checked the adjuster for movement. Apparently, I saw the unthreaded side move and could swear the threaded moved as well... Um, no...

So, took it apart and ended up doing the Marvel, PB, torch, tap it with a hammer, more lube, and got the adjuster apart so I could clean and lube the threads, etc. Got it back together, adjusted the shoes where I thought they should be, got it bled and took it for a test drive. I hit the brakes and it pulled so hard to the right, I thought I was going to roll it. After about a half dozen adjustments on the side of the road, it isn't much better.

I'll do a search to see if I can find out what I'm doing wrong, unless someone has a quick and easy solution.

Thanks for the help!

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'Bolter
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A hard pull to the right means a problem with the front right brake shoe or drum. If the problem were with the rear, that tire would lock up and skid. Remove the right front drum and inspect both the drum and the shoe. A small amount of grease or chemical on either will cause the brake to grab. Clean the shoe and drum with sandpaper and brake parts cleaner until no residue remains. Reassemble and readjust both front brakes.

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Renaissance Man
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Worn suspension parts are the most common cause of pulling to the right or the left during braking. Have someone work the steering wheel left and right and look for looseness in all moving parts.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Dec 2001
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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...Don't rule out the Left front brake. If it is doing nothing then the right one will make it pull to the right when its actuated.


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