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#1167346 05/29/2016 2:14 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 325
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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A big hole blew in my block at the poker run today. I guess I was pushing it pretty hard on the highway. I thought the valves were clattering louder and louder but in hindsight it was somthing more serious.

What do you suppose would cause this? It we be good to know so I don't destroy the next engine.

Hole in block

Busted rod bearing

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Saying OUCH just doesn't seem sufficient!


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
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1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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G
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Stove, seems you've "stoved" you're Stovebolt.

I'd guess the rod broke at the wrist pin and swung around busting the side of the block.
Or the rod bolts broke, cap came off and crank left the rod and most of a revolution later smacked into the side of the rod pushing it out the side of the block. This might be more likely?

Excessively high RPM probably the cause, what was it running? Or what gear ratio, tire size, and MPH to then calculate the RPM?


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jun 2000
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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Grigg has some possibilities. One major problem with the 216 was the rod bearings. Poured babbit bearings have wear problems. This can be from grit in the oil, prolonged operation at high RPM, lugging the engine (low RPM under load). Those are the big ones. Another is operation without enough oil (2 or so quarts low).

One common fix was to replace the engine with a 235, which has insert bearings, which have a steel shell with a layer of babbit inside. Another solution, if you want to replace with a 216, is to have the rod ends machined to accept the insert bearings.

I've seen worse. Threw a rod in a GMC 478 V6. Picked up a piece of the block larger than my size XL hand.

Last edited by Fred T; 05/29/2016 8:27 AM.

Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,271
5
Renaissance Man
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Improper maintenance is a likely cause of this catastrophe. The rod bearings are serviceable. The standard maintenance procedure is to drop the pan, remove the rod caps, pull one shim at a time from each until the slack is taken up, yet not dragging.
Another possible cause would be intentional abuse to a worn out 216 in order to convince the wife to allow the purchase of that sweet 235 you have been dreaming about...
Time to come clean, Stove. The truth will set you free. smile
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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My fault, should've dropped the pan but I was busy changing the water pump and axle.

The gears are 4:11 and the tires are 16" and I would guess I was travelling 65 mph. If my math is correct that is 5600 rpm. Of course the engine blew up!

Even at 55 mph that is 4800 rpm which also seems high to me.

I am in the lucky or unlucky position of having no wife other than an old truck. The good news is a found a 235 that has reportedly been rebuilt. The "wife" should be rolling again shortly!

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D
Gas Pumper
Gas Pumper
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Wanted. Wife with a Boat. Please send pictures of Boat. Yeah, these engines do not like more than 3500 rpm and I would not push mine above 3k. I would address gear ratios and try to get that rpm number down. Good luck!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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'Bolter
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How are you figuring that RPM Stove?

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Joined: Aug 2012
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Shop Shark
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Ouch......
Looks like at that rpm the oilers can't get enough oil to the rod bearings.

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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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You must be using those tires you took off the low-rider!

65 mph with 7.00-16 tires (29" diameter) and 4.11 gears is 3095 rpm.

Your numbers work out too a 16" diameter tire, which means you gave the wheel diameter instead tire diameter. To determine the tire diameter with bias-ply tires.

Using 7.00-16 as an example.
Tire height X 2 (7.00 x 2 = 14) + wheel dia. (16) - 1" (the flat portion at the bottom) = tire dia.
So 7.00" X 2 + 16" - 1" = 29"

I used to be able to calculate the metric sizes, but I would have to take off my boots.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 325
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 325
That makes more sense 3095 rpm.

The engine was beginning to knock after about 100 miles, and blew out about 1/2 mile after coming out of the valley. I left a long streak of oil and probably a few parts all over the highway.

Also, the blowout caused a fire near the fuel pump which was beginning to get out of hand on the side of the road. A good reason to carry a fire extinguisher.

Last edited by Stove; 05/30/2016 6:48 AM.
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Before buying a 235 first look for a 261.
Years ago when I was searching for a new engine for my truck nobody told me about the 261 and I had no idea they even existed (pre Stovebolt page for me).

Had I known I sure would have used a 261 instead.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 131
H
Shop Shark
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Hi Stove, Yup, try to find a 261. Check the yards for Canadian Pontiacs. That was the standard six cylinder engine after 1955
I found a extra engine for my two trucks but you cant have it.
It will run circles around a 216, If you find a truck version newer than 1958 it will have a full flow oil filter.

Keep searching. Howie


1 1955 Chev one ton. 261 engine

3 1962 Chev c-10 261 engine
4 1966 Plymouth VIP 5.7 GenIII Hemi
5 1966 Imperial Crown Coupe 440 engine
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Achipmunk
Saying OUCH just doesn't seem sufficient!
Yeah, that one is toast. eek
Your dilithium crystals weren't properly aligned. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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S
'Bolter
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After sleeping on this, I believe the primary cause of engine failure was low oil. The engine was full first thing, but after going through the valley the first time the engine was 2 liters / quarts low. This engine leaked ALOT of oil.

So when the engine was pulling hard up the hill, number 1 rod bearing was not oiled properly and weakened. Coming back through the valley a couple hours later, the rod had cooled and then heated again. And then failed.

The sad thing is an oil seal and oil pan gasket kit are sitting on my workbench. The water pump and rear axle superceded the gaskets.


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