The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake bleeder frozen 41' duelly

Tried to bleed the rear brakes on Big Red this weekend. The blender screw on the left wheel did not look like the normal screw. It did not have a arrow tip like the other ones. When I tried to to loosen it it would not budge. I tried vise grips but no luck. I my small mind I thought "Hey I will take off the the rear wheels and remove the drum, when that is done I can remove the backing plate and go to town on that pesky little nub"
well I got all the bots off the backing plate but could not for the life of me figure out how ro get it off?
I'm sure this is a routine procedure. Coul you please enlighten me.

Thanks

Andy

If you got that far, it is not too tough to remove the wheel cylinder. The backing plate does not need to be removed. The brake line will need to be removed. With the wheel cylinder out, it can be put in a vise to get the bleeder screw out. What year and model is the truck? The shop manual can help: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/
Good link and easy to use.

It's a 41' YS

When you have the wheel cylinder out check the condition of the bore, might be pitted enough you don't have to worry about the stuck bleeder screw and instead source a new cylinder.

Are there any interchanges for it? I'm going to assume that that is not something I'm going to find at my local NAPA?

Gentle heat and proper line fitting wrench or Vise Grip works well.

Ed

I'm not familiar with parts availability and part numbers for the older trucks but I wouldn't be surprised if they're available new. It sure wouldn't hurt to investigate.
I've had good luck getting brake parts at NAPA for things I didn't really expect them to have but they still did..

I looked on Napa online and only saw a rebuild kit for the master cylinder. A good brake and clutch supply place should be able to get them or at least get you a part #.

Alas too far gone. Got the cylinder off, tried to remove the bleeder valve and it snapped off. Tried to use my trusty(not so much anymore) nut puller( no its not the name but thats what I call it) and it broke it. Don't want to deal with it so going new. Thanks for the help

TK421, be sure to replace/rebuild them in sets.

Think I may have found them @ NAPA. Just need someone to confirm that the specs did not change between 41 and 46. Every thing I have read says that there is no difference. Just want to be xtra sure before I order

Have a little faith. Go ahead and order them and take your old one with you when you pick them up. If wrong they CAN send them back. Happens all the time.

Very little changed between 41 and 46 trucks. I would suggest that you ask for 46 parts as that year seems to show up in the books/databases more so than 41-45.

It's a little late now, but the next time you need to free up a stuck bleeder screw, here's a procedure that works:

Remove the wheel cylinder and remove all the rubber parts, pistons, springs, etc. It needs to be a bare casting with nothing but the cast iron cylinder and the bleeder screw. Clamp the cylinder in a vise, and heat the bleeder screw with a torch until it's red hot. GENTLY move the bleeder back and forth with a 6-point box end wrench or a socket. If it gets hard to move, stop, and heat again. It might be necessary to let the casting cool down, apply some penetrating oil like KROIL or PB Blaster, and heat again. I've salvaged lots of brake cylinders that way.
Jerry

Thanks for all the advice. It is greatly appreciated.

I did the brakes on world war 2 duck. could not find the wheel cylinder anywhere. Even the people that restore those could not help me. went to napa to see if they could make one and they said they had 3 in stock. Guess I overthought that one.

They have them @ NAPA!!!!

Thanks again folks. I may even be able to get her running for the weekend