The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine size

Of all engine sizes which are best suited to fit a 52, 3100 half ton? Besides a 216 and 235? I have a 235 w/848 head and want to put a 200r4 tranny behind it. What other 6 cyl options are there? Please don't suggest a v8.

A 261 will slide right in. Anything newer requires nearly as much fabrication as putting in a V8. A 230, 250, 292 will accept the 200r4 much easier than a 216, 235, or a 261.

The 194/230/250/292 series of inline 6 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as a small block V8, so a 200R4 transmission with a Chevy V8 bolt pattern would be a bolt-up swap. You would need to do a LOT of adapting to get motor mounts and crossmembers on your truck to bolt up to the late model 6 cylinder.

In my decidedly biased opinion, a 200R4 is a terrible choice for an overdrive transmission. It's got all the bad features of the 200 metric trans, plus a Mickey Mouse variable-displacement vane pump, and a flimsy overdrive section. It would be hard to run fast enough to give me one, and I've got one crippled leg! The 700R4/4L60 is a much better choice.
Jerry

I agree with Jerry on the transmissions.

I agree with Jerry as well.

I like the 2004R. Not terribly expensive to make reliable and will certainly hold up to the six cylinder engines listed above. In some cases easier to install because it is so close in length to the TH350. The bell housing makes it easy to bolt up to either the Chevy bell pattern or the BOP pattern.

A lot of folks sell them short, but they have always served me well.

And I like the 700R4 / 4L60 as well, though I find them more tempermental than the 2004R. But again, built right they work well and would hold up to any of the six cylinder engines above.

Just depends on preference and what your demands will be.

I put a 2004R in a 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton with a 350 V-8 in front of it and the customer was very pleased and is still using it after nearly four years.

I've run the 2004R in Cadillacs and not had any issues.

But everyone has their likes and dislikes. I like both and depends on what I am doing on which one I use.

How much floor refabrication would need to be done 2004r vs the 700r4? Any or none?

Transmissions using TV cables such as the 700R-4 must have their throttle linkage modified. The geometry is critical to proper transmission operation. Read these on the 700R-4 here:
http://tinyurl.com/yhzqbu3
http://tinyurl.com/y8lryr5

Trucks TV covered this in 2011.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/TK2011-05/classix-part-8-drivetrain-installation

Still wondering if I would have to cut floor and ad trans hump?

Did you watch videos of the entire build?

I installed a 350/400transmission in a '49. I did not touch the riveted crossmember whatsoever, and just unbolted the bolted-in crossmember and slid it back 4 inches (was able to utilize two of the original holes in the frame) and used that crossmember for the rear transmission mount. I had to slightly massage the front of the transmission hole in the floor and the transmission hole cover. I used the V8 engine mounts from Classic Performance Products.
Carl

Fred, Yes I did watch the video, I'm try to avoid cutting the floor for a transmission hump, another reason I'm looking at a 200r4. Has anyone installed a 200r4 and was there any floor cutting involved?

I put a 200R4 in a 1955 first series, and the floor was not a problem.
I do not however like any automatic conversion in an AD truck.
The only way to make it fit is to cut the crossmember that the bellhousing attached to out.
The problem I see with that is that the front cab mount brackets attach to the outside of the frame in about the same spot.
By removing the inner stiffener/crossmember I fear the cab mount brackets will flex the frame and crack it in a already crack prone spot.

Thank you Dave for that information, is it possible that strength comes back some when the new trans crossmember is installed or maybe boxing that section of frame?

Hey Jremig, Ive been following this post and thought I'd add my 2 cents. I watched that drivetrain video and found it very entertaining. Looks just like what you intend to do utilizing your straight 6 and an auto trans. I have a 327/700R4 in my 50 3100 and was on the same page as Pre '68 Dave w regard to cutting out that riveted crossmember that the bell housing was bolted to: hated to compromise the integrity of the ladder frame. So my answer was to cut out just the middle 15" of that crossmember and use a spanner tie plate made of 1/8" flanged plate steel bolted into those eight mystery holes that were on either side of the section I cut out. You'll see by my pics that my tie plate is bolted into eight 3/8" coupler nuts which doubled as spacers to clear the trans pan. In the pic showing the driver side remnant of that crossmember I installed the pivot for my trans linkage. Cross Member Modification Also I did not have to cut out my floor or firewall. However you do it there is a lot of jackology involved. Think it thru carefully. Good luck. Dave

If it has to be done, I like that a lot!

Thank you flatblu, that's the kind of info I'm looking for. Seems like a popular type thing to do but no clear steps or things of what needs to be done or not done. I like that term jackology.

I have a vortec 4200 mached up in my 54. I bought some mounts from Chassis Engineering, drilled and bolted to the frame. The factory mounts on the engine probably wouldv'e worked, buy I made my own from plate and used Ford Taurus rubber mounts.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/w...mp;_suid=1465319684703008745591035813743

I have a 5 speed trans bolted to it. I'm using a 3" drop tranny crossmember which will bolt to the lower flange of the frame.

The crossmember at the front of the cab doesn't need to come out, but for servicability I'm going to remove it. I don't want to have to pull the whole drivetrain for a transmission problem.

My plans are to use a 6" drop crossmember, (a 4" may work) bolt it to the frame. I'm going to split it in the middle and weld in a tube coupling. I may add some gussets to the bent areas of the crossmember for added strength.

Trailblazers and Envoys are very common in the sccrapyard now. Finding a complete vehicle with everything you need should be realitively inexpensive.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/w...amp;_suid=146531918688708243237331574429

It fits nicely in the frame rails.

I trimmed the front crossmember slightly. This wasn't really necessary, but it made my install easier. http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/whitedog76/media/0429152118a_zpsbsxnrqvo.jpg.html?filters[user]=125630029&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0#/user/whitedog76/media/0429152118a_zpsbsxnrqvo.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=125630029&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=0&_suid=146531988388208623286652343182

The oil pan does need to be modified. All 4200's are front sump. Some have used a Colorado 3.5 pan and modified, others have done a complete custom pan, it's up to you.


http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/whitedog76/media/0412151150_zpsvckmdjkk.jpg.html?filters[user]=125630029&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=10#/user/whitedog76/media/0412151150_zpsvckmdjkk.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=125630029&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=10&_suid=146532011365705772995235663668