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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,081 Posts1,055,955 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 | Well I had the time last night to try my hand at sandblasting the skirts that go around the seat in my 55.1, and it went pretty well. I used one of them Campell Hausfield guns with a hose that went into a bucket of sand and another hose the compressor. Worked like a champ although I had to wait at times for my compressor to charge back up, this will influence the wife to get me a larger compressor for father's day. I have links to pictures below, lord knows everyone loves pictures on the Stovebolt. Skirts 1 Skirts 2 Skirts 3 Skirts 4 With my set up it took me a couple hours with interuptions to Round-Up the garden, kill the weeds, have dinner and push my daughter on the swing. All in all a positive experience and I will tackle the seat frame tonight. Should have pictures tomorrow. Thanks and as Fred aka"Joker" says, "Just Drive 'Em"
Chris 1955FirstSeries
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 581 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 581 | Waitin' on that ole compressor can give you time to fine tune your meditation techniques, Chris Slow 'n steady on sheet metal is the best way to avoid warping. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 | Yep, I agree slow and easy is right. It was nice to just take my time. I am guessing the seat frame will take a little more time but that is okay.
Thanks, Chris
Chris 1955FirstSeries
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | I found that on part like the frame that a knotted wire wheel on the 4.5" grinder is much quicker and clean up is easier. I have been using the siphon blaster method and although slower it does the job. I alway use a blue tarp on the ground so the clean up and recycling of the grit is made easier. Be sure to get that bare metal covered before long or you will be blasting it again. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 288 | I am going to be painting the skirts tonight, I like the idea of the grinder method on the frame.
Thanks for the tip.
Chris
Chris 1955FirstSeries
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Chris, The grinder with a knotted wire wheel or one of the 3M stripping discs are much quicker than the blasting in most instances. The blasting is good for areas that the grinder cannot access. As always, wear a face shield and respirator when using either method. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 | Anyone,
After you've removed rust and are left with a pitted piece like above, do you fill in the pits w/bondo (oops, bad choice of words here?) or just prime/paint/sand/paint/sand/...?
Rance
66 C10 FS/LB 292/4-spd manual (I also enjoy Hang Gliding) I'm too sexy for my hair, that's why it isn't there
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | I use the dirt alley behind the garage a good place to do my blasting, NO CLEANUP REQUIRED! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | Rance, Depending on what you want to do with your truck, if the pits are surface only and the steel has good integrity, there is nothing wrong with using a little body filler in the pits.
Just be patient enough to go all the way down (high numbers, e.g. 600) with your sanding. It is amazing how body filler that feels perfect under your fingers can still look like crap with a coat of paint on. | | |
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