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#116532 06/17/2005 2:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 288
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Shop Shark
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Well I had the time last night to try my hand at sandblasting the skirts that go around the seat in my 55.1, and it went pretty well.

I used one of them Campell Hausfield guns with a hose that went into a bucket of sand and another hose the compressor.

Worked like a champ although I had to wait at times for my compressor to charge back up, this will influence the wife to get me a larger compressor for father's day.

I have links to pictures below, lord knows everyone loves pictures on the Stovebolt.

Skirts 1

Skirts 2

Skirts 3

Skirts 4

With my set up it took me a couple hours with interuptions to Round-Up the garden, kill the weeds, have dinner and push my daughter on the swing.

All in all a positive experience and I will tackle the seat frame tonight. Should have pictures tomorrow.

Thanks and as Fred aka"Joker" says,
"Just Drive 'Em"


Chris 1955FirstSeries
#116533 06/17/2005 2:37 PM
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'Bolter
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Waitin' on that ole compressor can give you time to fine tune your meditation techniques, Chris grin

Slow 'n steady on sheet metal is the best way to avoid warping.


Larry Kephart
1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
2017 Cadillac ATS-V (Elvira)
Boca Raton, Florida
e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/1998/billybob.htm
#116534 06/17/2005 3:10 PM
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Yep, I agree slow and easy is right. It was nice to just take my time. I am guessing the seat frame will take a little more time but that is okay.

Thanks,
Chris


Chris 1955FirstSeries
#116535 06/17/2005 3:25 PM
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I found that on part like the frame that a knotted wire wheel on the 4.5" grinder is much quicker and clean up is easier.
I have been using the siphon blaster method and although slower it does the job. I alway use a blue tarp on the ground so the clean up and recycling of the grit is made easier. Be sure to get that bare metal covered before long or you will be blasting it again.

#116536 06/17/2005 3:50 PM
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I am going to be painting the skirts tonight, I like the idea of the grinder method on the frame.

Thanks for the tip.

Chris


Chris 1955FirstSeries
#116537 06/17/2005 3:57 PM
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Chris,
The grinder with a knotted wire wheel or one of the 3M stripping discs are much quicker than the blasting in most instances. The blasting is good for areas that the grinder cannot access. As always, wear a face shield and respirator when using either method.

#116538 06/24/2005 5:28 PM
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Anyone,

After you've removed rust and are left with a pitted piece like above, do you fill in the pits w/bondo (oops, bad choice of words here?) or just prime/paint/sand/paint/sand/...?

Rance


66 C10 FS/LB 292/4-spd manual (I also enjoy Hang Gliding)
I'm too sexy for my hair, that's why it isn't there
#116539 06/29/2005 5:13 PM
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I use the dirt alley behind the garage a good place to do my blasting, NO CLEANUP REQUIRED!

#116540 06/29/2005 10:10 PM
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Rance,
Depending on what you want to do with your truck, if the pits are surface only and the steel has good integrity, there is nothing wrong with using a little body filler in the pits.

Just be patient enough to go all the way down (high numbers, e.g. 600) with your sanding. It is amazing how body filler that feels perfect under your fingers can still look like crap with a coat of paint on.


~ Kimberly
My '54 ... and my '63 and a '59 F100

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