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#1160049 04/12/2016 11:57 PM
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I'm curious what types of gas people on here run and what types of additives are used.

I've found a lot of mixed opinions about running regular pump gas..
So what has worked for you? Low octane, high octane? Ethanol, no ethanol? Additives or no additives?


1954 GMC 350-27
AdamK1500 #1160050 04/13/2016 12:04 AM
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87. No additives

AdamK1500 #1160052 04/13/2016 12:29 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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regular pump gas

DADS50 #1160053 04/13/2016 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DADS50
87. No additives

Is there ethanol in the 87 where you live? We can't get straight has except for 91 in southeastern South Dakota.


1954 GMC 350-27
AdamK1500 #1160056 04/13/2016 12:40 AM
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Yes , not sure the percent. I think it depends on the time of year.



AdamK1500 #1160058 04/13/2016 12:44 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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10% ethanol is common in NY. I have had no problems (in 12 years).

NC does not require labelling of ethanol content (a very consumer oriented state).

AdamK1500 #1160061 04/13/2016 12:51 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Winter blend vs summer blend is usually produced by varying the amount of butane. Still, maybe ethanol is also adjusted by season to keep evaporation low?

AdamK1500 #1160063 04/13/2016 1:01 AM
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around here it's always 10% except e85 which is obviously 85%

This has turned out more unanimous than i thought it might be.


1954 GMC 350-27
AdamK1500 #1160066 04/13/2016 1:07 AM
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I use 87 octane with 10% ethanol. I have to change the accelerator pump diaphragm in my Carter carburetor about every three years. Other than that, all is well.
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 04/14/2016 12:13 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
AdamK1500 #1160074 04/13/2016 1:44 AM
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Just regular 87 octane.

AdamK1500 #1160075 04/13/2016 1:47 AM
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I just run regular pump gas but, I have noticed both my barracuda and suburban don't like the winter gas near as well as the stuff they sell in the summer.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1958 Chevy 6400 flatbed W/dump
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1959 Chevy Suburban Owned for almost 20 years, Daily Driver -- sold May 2016
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Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof
AdamK1500 #1160100 04/13/2016 3:03 AM
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87 octane, 10% ethanol. No additives.


Bill Burmeister
AdamK1500 #1160156 04/13/2016 2:19 PM
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Bolter
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100%, 91 octane real gas, always! We're lucky in Oklahoma to be able to easily find the real stuff.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
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AdamK1500 #1160643 04/15/2016 11:07 PM
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I am lucky to be able to buy non-ethanol 85, 87, and 89 octane. Ethanol is bad stuff for anything older, avoid it if you can.


Daryl
AdamK1500 #1160652 04/16/2016 12:28 AM
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Ethanol gunks up the old vintage carbs. I also do not like that it starts to deteriorate after 3 months and begins to smell bad, then go bad REAL quick after. If you have one of those edge trimmers for your lawn that you use only twice or three times a year, you can relate. No slam on ethanol because that is for modern cars, but bad for this vintage. Also, bad if you only drive your truck seasonally. IMHO.

So, for those who are confused on what to do. In the 1950s, they used Lead and it had the effect of added lubrication and allowed these engines to run longer. In addition, the timing and 'pinging' problem was better managed. If you are having problems, and ONLY if it bothers you.. go to any small airport and ask the FBO (the operator of the Airport) if you can get gas from them. Then choose 100 (octane) Low Lead. It is expensive, but if that is not your first concern, try it and see if it makes a difference. Here in Kansas, they do not exclude anyone from purchasing their gas. It's commonly referred to as AVGAS.

Controversy isn't the issue here. Your pinging, timing and understanding of the evolution of engines is. Focus on what is best for YOU. Let others whine about each opinion. IMHO

Anyone for discussing DOT5 vs DOT3 brake fluid? How about what Oil to use? LOL! Please nobody blow a gasket! I hear they are not in production anymore.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
AdamK1500 #1160653 04/16/2016 12:39 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I have been using Sta-Bil gas treatment over the winter for over 10 years (in my lawn mowers and in my Suburban). The Suburban hibernates for about 5 months and starts right up in April/May (since 2004). I have had no carburetor problems in that time.

AdamK1500 #1160657 04/16/2016 1:27 AM
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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X2 on the Sta-bil but I also do not live in a harsh climate.
Luckily I can start my stuff up, even the mower, during the winter.....and a nice cruise/ride on a pretty day.

Last edited by Achipmunk; 04/16/2016 1:27 AM.

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AdamK1500 #1160778 04/16/2016 10:27 PM
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Sta-bil is on my shopping list. Definitely worth a try!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
AdamK1500 #1160841 04/17/2016 4:32 AM
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I just started my truck after sitting since late October and he fired right up.
It wasn't much of a winter this year but usually we have serious winter in this part of Canada.
For the last fill of the season I fill the tank with ethanol-free gas and pop in half a bottle of Sta-bil and drive home just part him and wait for spring.


1951 Chevy 3100 5-Window
"Howard"
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AdamK1500 #1161383 04/20/2016 4:02 AM
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Keep in mind, there are 2 different blends of Sta-Bil. You need to use the Sta-Bil for ethanol gas if that's what you're treating. The old 'regular' Sta-Bil doesn't work with ethanol.


Daryl
AdamK1500 #1161384 04/20/2016 4:12 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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"If you are storing a gasoline vehicle or piece of equipment for 30 days or longer, we recommend you continue to use STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer. It will keep fuel fresh for up to 12 months.

If you are looking for an additive that will help protect your vehicle or equipment from Ethanol-blended fuels, you should be using new STA-BIL® Ethanol Treatment more regularly to help further protect against corrosion, clean your fuel system, and remove water at every fill up.
"

X-Farmboy #1161385 04/20/2016 4:16 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by X-Farmboy
Keep in mind, there are 2 different blends of Sta-Bil. You need to use the Sta-Bil for ethanol gas if that's what you're treating. The old 'regular' Sta-Bil doesn't work with ethanol.
Which old 'regular' Sta-Bil doesn't work with ethanol?

"DOES THE ORIGINAL STA-BIL® FUEL STABILIZER NO LONGER WORK WITH ETHANOL FUELS?

This is absolutely NOT true. STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer is effective in storing gasoline for up to 12 months in ALL Ethanol blended fuels, up to E-85. It prevents gum and varnish formation/build-up caused by the breakdown of fuel and also helps prevent corrosion from moisture/humidity during storage.
"

http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/sta-bil-faqs

AdamK1500 #1161485 04/20/2016 11:32 PM
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Good work! You've done some research that proves what I've been told is not accurate. Thanks for taking the time TC!!


Daryl
AdamK1500 #1161487 04/20/2016 11:43 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Your posts had me worried, Daryl

You caused me to wonder if my use of Sta-Bil every winter was just a mindless practice/habit.

Thanks for making me look it up. It is hard to prove it is helping over the winter. It is possible that I would have no problems if I stopped using it?

By the way, I found it odd that only one product refers to ethanol on their Sta-Bil products-page.

AdamK1500 #1161541 04/21/2016 6:35 AM
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I use 87octane pump gas, except for that last tank before winter storage. I run the tank as empty as I dare and go fill it up with non-ethanol premium. I do the same for the motorcycles, the chain saw and the wood chipper. The ethanol can create tiny balls when exposed to water in storage. The balls are small enough to plug up idle circuits in carburetors. This proved a real pain on my Gold Wing which takes about three days work to get to the carbs to clean them. Never again.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
AdamK1500 #1161598 04/21/2016 5:36 PM
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One can sometimes get non-alcohol fuel(80 octane) at your small, local airport.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
AdamK1500 #1162725 04/28/2016 2:19 PM
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I live in NOLA area and avoid ethanol gas if possible. Octane really depends on performance build on engine, my old custom Harley Shovelhead I use only premium. (and plan to do same when I finish building engine for my stovebolt.) Reason I avoid ethanol if possible is because I have personally seen how it attracts water causing problems in gas tanks and float bowls and NOT good for older rubber products. I read anything built prior to 2012 is NOT ethanol friendly.


DJ Baar
Baar

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