The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1951 Chevrolet 3600 shop restore pricing

Hi everyone, it has been awhile since I posted on stovebolt. I have been in training with the Air Force. My new career path is not allowing much time for my truck. I really would like it completed. Does anyone have an idea what the cost for hiring a shop to restore my truck would be? Meaning a basic resto. Except for a fuel injected crate engine, updated rear end, and ac. This is also assuming the frame is good but all sheet metal would be replaced except for cab.

You are not "restoring" a truck by putting a fuel injected engine in it, you are rebuilding it.

You are talking about a lot of fabrication and I would expect it to run you $20,000 or more. Unless the service is paying trainees a lot more than what they paid when I was in, I don't think you can afford that route.

I'm with Cletis. "Restoring" means to return to stock or near stock. Some will argue that, hence many of the "Restoration" shows on TV using the term. If you modify a vehicle's suspension and/or power train you are "Restomoding" or "Restorodding" it. Now that we're done arguing semantics, the amount you'll spend depends on what you have done and the part of the country you live in. All of the shops around here use the "cost plus" method. You are billed $X per hour plus parts & materials for every hour your vehicle is worked on. My recommendation is for you to find the shop you want to have work on your vehicle and show them what you want done. They can give you a cost estimate but it's an estimate, not a bid. You CAN give them a ceiling to not go over without your approval. Take the links in my signature. The restoration of my '38 took about 10 years in stages and I have about $30K in it. It's not a frame off restoration. A good frame off is usually the most expensive because literally every nut, bolt, screw, piece of glass and panel are touched and restored. Good luck with your project.

Depending on how much metal work is needed and you don't know that til its media blasted, it can run $30-60K. The average that leaves here is $60K, frame off updated underside original top side. We have one here now that has had 20K in metal and body work no paint yet.

If you are installing ALL new sheet metal there will be a LOT of time spent fitting all of the parts together for propper gaps before painting. I restorodded my '56 3100 and I did everything except for final fit and paint and I've got a TON of money in it. Actually more than the insurance company will insure it for.

If you just hand your truck to a shop to do it for you completely, I believe you could be into it for $50k or more

Just add the major parts up using rounded off numbers;

$5000 Sheet metal (Front clip, doors, rear fenders and bed)
$500 Bed Wood
$1000 Chassis (front disc brake kit, spring pin kits etc.)
$8000 Engine, Trans and Rear
$2000 Wheels and tires
$2000 Misc (glass, bumpers, door handles, mirrors etc.)
$1500 Interior (seat, firewall pad, knobs & switches, floor mat, headliner, fuel tank, etc.)
$5000 Paint supplies (remember you will be painting both sides of EVERYTHING).

That comes to $25K and there isn't any labor included...I'd say double the parts will be close on the labor.

My .02 cents


EDIT...I was typing while Dave posted...I agree with him!

Mike B

unless you are attached to your particular truck, you may want to just buy one that someone else has already had done. Normally, you can only sell it for a fraction of what you put into it so, you may find one someone else has already put 30-40K or more in and get it for 20-25K. that is just my 2 cents worth, and probably all it is worth too! LOL.

The only way to know for sure is to shop around at your local shops. Prices can vary wildly by area and shop, and there are tons of variables and your trucks condition and what you want as a finished product determines the price.

Sidenote on choosing a shop: There are way too many guys that have went with the cheapest route to spend twice to three times as much after they finally quit giving the guy money and took it to a reputable place to get finished. Around here a lot of cars go through 2-3 shops that "Can do it cheap", only to be finished by a shop that actually knows what they're doing and doesn't just feed money into their bad habits.

What 69Cuda said!

2nd what cuda said. I can tell you from experience. North of 36k into it and still in assembly. That does not include the bed or rims to replace the split rims and tires; haven't even started pricing these items yet. This is going to be a brand spanking new 1953 Chevy 3600 (save the rims). And it has only been about 11 years in the making.

Shoulda saved the money and bought a brand new k2500......naww

I have five 1/2 tons (48-53) in various stages of restoration. All 55-62 6 cylinders and all frame up. The frame alone with engine and drivetrain costs about $12000. Then that figure is about tripled by the time it's over. The process is the adventure. The Journey involves meeting new friends, helping others, learning vast new things. The Destination is a finished truck. Like said earlier, big deal. Best to purchase a finished one if it's the Destination you are interested in. If it's the Journey, then whatever it costs, it costs and more importantly, however long it takes to do it right, it takes. One thing is guaranteed.. you will have more in it when you are done than if you were to go out and purchase a brand new truck with all the bells and whistles. I try not to think about the expense.

Wish we knew a little more about your situation. What the guys above have said is all true.
However, are you stationed where you think you'll be for a year...or 2 years? Do you have a place to tear it down yourself? Do you have buddies willing to help.
....depending on answers you may want to consider subbing it out. Here I can get a chassis sandblasted and powdered coated with a little more than me buying the sand, and sand blaster, and paint to do the job. Sub the chassis, sub the brake job to a local shop and so it goes. That way, if you have the time, you can sub it out yourself and save money. ANYTIME you go into a RESTORATION shop the price just went up 25%......yeah, I know 3 local shops, and the employee's right here in my hometown. They do total restorations. They will not "mess with" a small job like doing a brake over haul or blasting just a set of rims or just the wiring. They want it all. "Basically" a good job will run around 65K as mentioned above.

How much of the work, if any, can you do?? Sounds like the engine is already in the vehicle. YOUR labor is cheap. Someone else is not.

Now, all this said, I was just in one of my friends restoration shop a week ago. They finished a 1950 pickup with EVERYTHING customized or made and the guy has OVER 100 grand in it. It is nice but just not my cup of tea. Don't let this scare you. There are a lot of nice daily drivers that can be done for 16/18grand. After 6 years I'm driving one of them!

With a first class restoration & the modifications you are talking about it would cost 75-100 thousand dollars.

Here's a paragraph to give you some idea of what's involved. In 1998/9 I started a restoration project on my 51 1-ton. It was mechanically sound and I did nothing to the suspension, brakes or engine other than $1000 worth of period speed equipment. It sat as a rolling chassis all winter. I completely dismantled the sheet metal and pulled the cab and box off the frame.

I did all the body work and primer and paid to have the finish coat shot with the truck in pieces. The finish painting cost $1400. Other materials, like glass, weather strip, patch panels, primer, sand paper etc. cost me over $10,000. It took me from November till June working about half time.