The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Labor Day

Labor Day

Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching?

Wrenching this Labor Day
Plenty of places to share.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 62 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,009
Posts1,055,293
Members48,419
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1159356 04/09/2016 1:43 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 290
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 290
I just installed my rebuilt 59 235 engine back in my truck. I cranked it up and started running it at a mid RPM break-in period as requested by my engine builder. Afterwards, I noticed an exhaust leak on the side of my exhaust at the moving warm up mechanism/device (I don't know what it is called but it helps send heat back to the engine for warm-up). I am wondering if I can eliminate that device or leave it in place and seal off both ends to stop my exhaust leak? It is leaking on the side with the large counterbalance weight device. Leaking where the stem passes through the manifold. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!


1950 Chevy 3100
In the DITY Gallery
In the Gallery Forum
77 International Scout ll
96 F-150 ext cab 4x4
2000 Tahoe
2011 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,190
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,190
You are referring to the heat riser, it's best to keep it, they help in cool damp climates.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can take the flap out, with some work, and put tight fitting bushing in the manifold to help seal the leaks. The flap is welded on the shaft and requires some grinding, it would also will require some welding to put it back. It's about as much work to take it out and plug the holes as it is to fix the holes and repair it for good.

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Bronze/brass bushings are available in common sizes. Definitely fix to operate as designed.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Here is another option - if your pivot holes are not too wallowed out?

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
Some good pics on dennys site

...link...


Shows where the shaft is spot welded
...pic...


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0