The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Radial VS Bias again

I understand the advantages to radial tires, but the availability of the radials is not so good (4 to 6 weeks out) and they are $400 more for 4 tires. I will not be doing a lot of freeway driving and my truck will not be driven daily. So do you fellow bolters think it is worth the wait and the added expense? The bias ply's are in stock. (I'm getting anxious that's all that is left to put this old girl back on the road!) Thanks for any input, Scott

What year/model truck and what size tires are we talking about?

Mike B

I looked and searched for radial tires all last winter and spring to replace the 6.70x15 bias ply tires on my 39. I found nothing in a blackwall truck tire to match the height and overall look of the bias ply I had. The bias still had a lot of tread, but they were badly weather checked, even between the tread. I didn't trust them. I purchased new bias for my artillery rims. Since I've only driven the truck with bias, I'm not aware of any difference, I'm sure there probably is.

Rick

Do you know why all modern cars have radials .............. ?

'cause they are better

I used Dunlop Steelmaster 700R 15 LT. They are the same size as the original 700x15 bias. I got 45000 miles before I decided to change them due to the change in use of the truck (carrying a camper) . They were about 1/2 worn then.

The Dunlops transformed the '40s road manners , all for the better .

There will be several other tyre suppliers who make similar product for light trucks .

Sorry it is a 41 1/2 ton 99.9% stock. Stock wheels. OEM tire size is 6.00x16. Money is not the only issue, immediate availability is another factor. Scott

You might want to look at Coker radials. Seem to be too expensive for many people. They look like bias ply but are radials. I have had good luck with them.
https://www.cokertire.com/tires/styles/radial-tires/coker-classic-nostalgia-radial-blackwall.html

When I was looking to change from my bias plies, I happened upon a set of 6 tires at a flea market. They were off a dually and were the perfect size for me. I picked them up for $100, they were about 30% wore. I don't usually go for used, but in this case it worked out.

Wanderinwillys, I'm running 16" radials on my truck...a 1951 3600. I bought it with almost new 15" 7.00/15's. It looked great with the original paint on the stock wheels right down to pin stripes and hub caps. However, when I let it set a few weeks the tires flat spotted and only rounded back up after miles of driving. It also followed every rut/ridge and low spot in our worn out local roads. But it looked Great.

After much soul searching I picked up a new set of trailer rated, narrow 16" wheels along with a set of MasterCraft Courser HXT E rated 215/85/16s. They're 30.3" tall and designed for a 5.7 to 7" rim.

Truck drives and rides so much better it's now more like a 1981 than a 1951. Since I rarely drive it loaded I'm running 35psig front and 30psig rear. The 10 ply tires stand up fine with these pressures.

Now I don't have to worry about tire repairs due to the (original) retaining rim wheels plus it's quite on the road, no tracking and the new black wheels and narrow 16" tires look right at home on my fairly stock truck. I'll never go back to bias plys.

Seems I read somewhere that when switching from tube type bias ply to radials on older vehicles, it was necessary to adjust the camber a few degrees to get the steering geometry right.

Does anyone know the facts around this story?

Whoa fellas -- Let's not be too hasty to spend our brother out of his budget unnecessarily

FWIW -- Peggy and I did a 260-mile drive yesterday on a mixture of some back roads and mostly 4-lane divided highway, and at sustained speeds of 60-65 mph, on 7.50-17 bias ply tires. We're still alive And did I mention the rain-slicked pavement?

No argument, radials *are* better. I'd like to put radials on my truck, too, but for now, the BP's do just fine. Air them up to specs and warm them up to get rid of the flat spots, watch for dry rot (hmmmmm.... things you should do for *any* tire ...) and they do just fine. And even *if* you go on the freeway. I have spent a fair amount of time (since I upgraded my axle) over the past few years cruising at highway speeds on the highway and have somehow managed to live to tell about it (oh yeah, with a babbitted engine, too)

Just sayin' -- bias plys still can get the job done nicely if budget/schedule do not permit radials.

Just a friendly alternative view.

Scott,

What size truck tires are you looking for?

What would bias ply truck tires cost for that size?

Last summer my Goodyear (Truck) Tire dealer sold me:

Goodyear Wrangler HT
$134, plus sales tax
LT215/85R16/10 ply (mounted/valves and balanced - no tubes needed this time on my wheels)

I did not even check for a bias-ply truck tire price.

Thank you JOHN M. I don't expect my 39 to ride, handle, or have the comfort of newer vehicles. I also cruise at 55-60 mph, some of it on freeways, using bias ply tires. If any of you folks would like to donate a nice set of rims and radials, I'd be more than willing to give them a try. I'll even let you know what the difference, good or bad, of the resulting said change. I'm curious too! Meanwhile, the new bias ply tires have given me safe, reliable service and take me on down the road.

Rick

At one time I looked into BF Goodrich Commercial T/A Traction tire in the 215/85r16 size. They were the only ones that looked halfway decent, tall, and skinny. Rim size was 5.5" to 7" and they are 30" tall. Should I get real serious about putting on the miles, I would still get them. They have a nice shoulder and can be studded.

On the driving front, I have bias ply and they certainly do like to follow any ruts or cracks in the pavement whether you want to do so or not. Makes me wonder what it would be like to slap radials on.

I hope Cavebull doesn't mind but here are his pictures of what they look like. BFG's

I assume those are the stock 4" rims pictured? Are there any clearance problems such as clearance at the stock tie rod ends etc. They look great and don't appear to bulge too much in the center of the tread. Is this a safe and workable solution? Thanks Scott

Are Cavebull's rims 4" or 4.5"?
It looks like the photos are of a 1946 truck?

Scott,

You are referring to tie-rod end clearance with standard 1941 1/2 ton front end?

And, you are referring to your 4" rims?

If Cavebull's rims are 4.5", maybe someone will reply with first-hand experience mounting the 215/85r16 on the original-spec 4" rim (9/16" offset)?

Mounting that tire on my 1954 with 4.5" rims (9/16" offset) and original front end parts (tie-rod ends, etc) has resulted in no clearance problems.

Most people report clearance problems with they use non-stock-spec rims with different offset distances compared to original rims.

I will need to dismount a tire to verify what I have, but according to my research the stock 41 1/2ton came with a 4"wheel as would the 46 as well. And yes I am referring to the stock 41 tie rod ends. Scott

In response to what size rim Cavebull uses, this is what I found:

So, 641Workmaster, you are confirming that they are 4.0" rims/wheels?

Thanks,

No, just quoting Cavebul. But the quote says he is using original rims which are "narrow". It would probably be best to send Cavebull a PM to confirm. I believe he got rid of this truck but am not sure.

Kyle

Yes, it would be nice to hear from someone with 4.0" rims who is using radials.

Happy Easter all! What is this about welding the tube holes? My wheels are 4" wheels. Local tire shop will not install tires on 4" wheels when the tire spec.(215/85R16) stipulates 5"-7" wheels, and they will not install tubes, they say the mfgrs. do not recommend it. I can mount them myself but am wondering if this is a good idea? Are there other design issues as far as the bead area of the tires and wheels to be concerned with? Thanks, Scott

I doubt if my dealers would mount on a 4" rim.

However, both of the local dealers have mounted new radial tires on 4.5" rims, and both have been willing to use tubes.

One set of wheels needed tubes, and the other set did not need tubes.

The set with tubes is now about 12 years old.

If you are going to do normal speed, normal road driving, you might be OK with 4.0" rims.

However, it would be nice/safer to hear from people who have mounted this size radial on a 4" rim.

The original tube holes are often the wrong size or too rust-damaged to be used for the tubeless valve stems, so they are often welded shut, and new holes are drilled a good distance away from the welded up old holes.
Carl

Just my 2 cents. I just bought bias for my 52 3100 and couldn't be happier. They have the look I was after with hi way tread up front and big lug traction on the back. Just like my Paps old truck I remember from years ago. Got them from Summit Racing with free shipping 4 tires and tubes under $600.00.
6.50 x 16 on 4 1/2 inch rims Tornel hi way on the front and super traxion on the rear.
Like I said just my 2 cents but why have an old truck with modern equipment if your keeping it stock ?? I want the old truck ride , thats why I built it.

P.S Nothing wrong with radials for those of you who want them. JMO