The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

I decided my 53 AD needed a clock. I know they did not offer a dash mounted clock so I just made a 53-54 car clock work. I found a 3 inch ID female to female exhaust PIPE connector to use as a housing. Welded two TABS to the inside. Cut it to MATCH the dash. It looks GOOD to ME

Looks good.Nice job

looks real nice, great job.

That clock looks great. Today I put the 47 3800 dually AD on a trailer and towed her down to my welder buddy. I cut all the old panels away last weekend. I left him with new panels. I can't wait to get the phone call.....come and get it. Joe

Finally got the correct speedometer cable housing that goes into the automatic trans on my panel. Finally, the leak is gone.

Hey Mike, darn good job on the clock housing. Beats the 400 or more some want for them!

It was suggested sometime ago we had a place to post these sort of ideas/developments. It sure would be nice.
Did you make two?? One would like nice on the panel dash!

amtrackjoe, be sure and post pictures.

Hey Blanch - I had a standard oil bath filter housing base that was rusted thru in a few spots. So I cut the bottom out of it (somewhat oversize), keeping the center part with the stock pinch clamp that goes over the top of the stock carb. Now you basically have a 6" or so diameter disk.
I cut off the "pipe" sort of sheet metal that sticks up into the upper assembly of the oil bath filter, the part with the stud the wing nut threads on to, there's no need for it anymore.
Next I brazed the bottom of the Edelbrock filter to this "disk" with the pinch clamp. I brazed it in 4-5 spots around the inside perimeter. It was too thin for my welding skills, brazing was safer.
I mixed up some JB Weld and applied a bead to the areas where there wasn't brazing, just to seal off any short cuts unfiltered air could take.
Then I trimmed the extra material from the outside until it matched the Edelbrock base diameter.
At that point the rest is cosmetic stuff, sanding, painting.
Now you have a filter that mounts as an original would.

this weekend i replaced the door latch and window regulator. fought with installing the vent assembly for hours until I removed the back channel screws, which gave me the wiggle room needed to seat the glass into the front channel. Recently pulled the Harrison Fresh Air heater, pulled the core which was leaking and had a local shop re braze the core. This is a 53 3100 daily driver for my daughter.

Tossed a couple gallons of 'real' gasoline into my tank since inserting a debris strainer into the outlet valve; checked for leaks around the valve and fittings... nice and dry.

Got her restarted no problem and after idling for 10 or 15 minutes, it started flooding all of a sudden. Sheesh...

Installed the freshly delivered passenger side engine frame perch for the 292 in the 71 GMC.

Masked / first coat of flat black on the grill..

I know it's my own doing, but it has been flat out weird working on my truck and not getting filthy dirty the past few weeks. Tonight, I started removing all the bed wood bolts to remove the wood for paint. I was grabbing the frame, springs, cross sills, drive shaft, differential- whatever was there and I'm getting the truck dirty as opposed to vice versa... (and what is a safe cleaner to remove Al anti-seize?)

Maybe I just got hooked on fast orange or something & haven't used it for a while.

Brad

Try some WD-40 and finish up with some dish soap..
Brake Cleaner works as well, but not so safe...

Dish soap may be the best bet. Coating on truck is single stage urethane. Thanks -

Brad

a bit of gasoline on a rag, wipe the anti-sieze off quick, then wash the gas off with some warm soapy water (I like palmolive but just about any liquid dish soap should do fine)

Gasoline should never be used for a cleaner. It's fumes are heavier than air and concentrate in low areas. A tragedy waiting for a spark.

Thanks for adding that info for the readers, cletis; Also-I've had enough fires in the garage this year.(Edit- gasoline would definitely work, though-thx) There must be something dish soap won't cut in this Al(-uminum) Anti-seize, though. It is smudgy. I'll move threads if I can't figure it out.

Brad

*** edit- glass cleaner is what you use ***

Acetone?

I cut a piece of 1"x1" 9 ga. stainless square tube in half, lengthwise, to use under the 55.2's bed as reinforcing strips. They aren't perfect, but they are stout & I like 'em for the front & rear intermediate bolt hole locations.

Brad

Hey Unk,
Crank up that camera so we can see your project.

Random selection of pictures.
Brad

(Boy! Checking some pics to share in the link was a walk down memory lane- I haven't looked at most of those in a long time)

Installed my radiator today:
http://ssrjim.wordpress.com

Well Jim,
That's an impressive trail of work. Great work and attention to detail. Congratulations!

Made a new bump stop for the cab of my 1948 two ton. I had a new mount kit that had the replacement bump stop that was cone shaped with a 3/8" bolt in the center, but decided to cast some new rubber on the original plate from the bump stop that was stock. I think this type of bump stop was only 1947 and 1948. Pictures of my process are on the link. I made a mold then cast it with a urethane rubber. In the pictures there is an original I haven't re-cast. The rubber on the original was hard as a rock and shrunk down and it had separated from the mounting plate. I made the mold wider and got the height from the cone shaped replacement part I won't be using.

http://s527.photobucket.com/user/Chevytwoton/slideshow/stop%20bumps

Drove down to Mule1951's home in Cullman today and purchased a 1959 261 for my 1959 38 flatbed. Had a great time visiting and looking at his collection of 261s and assorted Task Force 38s. It was great to finally meet someone who enjoys the TF one ton trucks as much as I do, or maybe more.

I took the 55.2's bed hardware, metal strips, & wood off. Then, I sanded all 16 edges of each board to round them for painting. Wiped the dust off of the boards, dryed them, & noticed I really need to wash the dust off of me.

Brad

Uncle Brad, you worked too hard. Your board only has 12 edges.

Maybe he sanded some of them twice!

Super55, great job. Looks really good.
I didn't like the aftermarket parts either, so I cut replacements out of a slab of 80 duro rubber and glued them to the original plates with rubber bonding epoxy.

Finally all the bling pieces are in for the engine on the '48. Now I just need a bit warmer weather to get outside and put them on.

Jim Sear, I wasn't sure what hardness to use on the ones I cast. The replacements were 60 duro. That's what I used. You can buy the cast urethane up to 90 duro. It's amazing how rock hard the old rubber stop bumps were when they dried out. Wish I could easily make the small metal plates that the rubber stops are mounted on. I could pour extras. I might "fake" the plates since the rubber mixtures have a short shelf life after you open them up. Also, I am not sure what the 3/4" hole's function is at the top of the rubber. It might have something to do with there mass production process. I put it in mine anyhow. That's what that metal mold is on top of the plaster mold in my pictures.

http://s527.photobucket.com/user/Chevytwoton/slideshow/stop%20bumps

Count again...

Brad

I think you are both wrong...LOL, I count 32 different outside corners edges, 12 on each end and 8 down the length.

But who's counting

Mike B

I am so confused!..LOL. Just put a piece of plywood in.

I just got the 2nd coat of POR-15 on the 55.2's bed wood underside- pictures. So, now is the waiting game for the 3rd coat on the bottom of the boards, then probably an early morning flip over to start the top sides.

Brad

I have been working on the engine.cleaned the bare block and put it on the stand.I have the crankshaft back in it.

That's correct, Mike. But this truck is a 2nd Series, so you have to divide by 2 and you get 16.

My point was- it was a lot of sanding...I just got the 3rd coat of POR15 on the boards, so there is no way the wood will rust on the bottom side!

Brad (sarcasm & dry humor are difficult to convey in print---that was me trying anyway)

You should have used POG-15 (paint over grain) much better suited to wood....

My point was- it was a lot of sanding...I just got the 3rd coat of POR15 on the boards, so there is no way the wood will rust on the bottom side!

So true Buddy! The hardest part of my build that exhausted and bored me more than any other part was my treatment with my bedwood and my bed rails.

I worked on the engine.I had a problem when I tried to press the camshaft gear off.I broke the cam retainer plate. Now I will have to find one.shattered like glass.
I did get the block cleaned ,the best I could in the parts washer,also the crankshaft and pistons ,all back in and torqued .

8 years in ,,I got my front and Rear bumpers on next is visor Screws
Dan

Just getting started in the projects. 48 1 ton. Feeling happy to have pulled the Carb, and getting down and dirty with the Carburetor cleanup. Looking pretty ugly, Will have to find a good rebuild kit for a Carter YF, and maybe some ultrasonic cleaning. Amazing that it still ran! (although pretty poorly at that)